Zambia – Page 9

African Critters

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Africa has more than its fair share of wildlife. Not many large animals — the kind you would typically think of in Africa like lions, elephants, and giraffes — range in urban areas except on private game reserves. The critters that hang out near our house are of a smaller variety. An occasional oversized snake (poisonous or not) slithers its way on to our property until someone dispatches it, but for the most part, the critters who hang around the neighborhood are small reptiles, amphibians, insects, and arachnids.

We have small lizards and geckos. They’re cute, multicolored, and harmless. Mosquitoes, spiders, ants, termites and other pests are omnipresent. They usually multiply at the end of the dry season and beginning of the rainy season (right now, September – January). First the “flatties” – harmless spiders that can grow as large as three inches wide with a very flat profile. Their abdomens can grow so plump that they almost look like small crabs. Flatties look menacing but are more lazy than threatening. I have yet to see one catch an insect — night or day. Like a lazy tomcat, they usually lounge on the walls as if waiting casually for something to come their way. I was startled this morning by a flattie squatting on the side of our computer desk. It must have been 2.5 inches wide with a 3/4 inch abdomen. She blended in well with the woodwork.

Other insects are more of a nuisance and even threatening. The ants in this part of the world are diverse and imposing, from tiny yellow or brown sugar ants attracted to unstored food to large half-inch army ants. One night I saw a stream of army ants marching (quite literally) away from our house down the driveway like a living stream. We fumigated the foundation soon after that – army ants mean business. Unattended beverages with sugar or sweet crumbs are major attractions for the smaller ants. They build large nests around the house foundation and find entry points into the house through the tiniest of openings. It’s quite a sight seeing a mass of ants attacking a snack you’ve left somewhere you thought would have been off limits – like around your den.

Of course, there are the mosquitoes. In this part of the world, mosquitoes can be deadly. Many carry malaria and can leave one very ill or dead if bitten. Where I live in Lusaka is considered malaria-free because of its high altitude (over 4,000 feet), but leaving the city is a different story. There are four strains of malaria to contend with — if you get malaria once, you’re not immune to getting it again. Anti-malaria pills are recommended if you visit Zambia, but they don’t prevent malaria and only help you stay alive if you fall ill. I’ve been told that malaria-carrying mosquitoes are of a particular variety. Zambia’s mosquitoes are diverse. Some are small and silent, and others are slow and noisy, and I have yet to figure out which ones carry malaria. Better to wear mosquito repellent and sleep under mosquito nets treated with repellent. We’ve been thankful the past few months to live relatively mosquito-free, but the little critters have started coming out again.

After the first rain of the season, all the creepy crawlies that lay dormant during the dry season come to life. The winged termites are the first to emerge; they breed in such large quantities that it is a bit like a sooty blizzard when they come out. As they shed their wings and head into the ground, they leave behind piles of wings akin to small snow drifts. Out come the brooms to sweep them up. The termites build mounds that can grow incredibly large. I once saw abandoned termite mounds in northwestern Zambia as tall as a two-story house – with trees growing on top of them! I’ve been told that termites keep building their mounds until they can no longer sustain the brood, and then they disperse in search of new homes. There are few large termite mounds in Lusaka because urbanization has limited the availability of foliage termites consume.

Finally, once a year the caterpillars emerge. Before they become butterflies, many Zambians will collect and use them in a local dish called ifishimu. Ifishimu, or cooked caterpillar and onion salad, is an acquired taste. I tried some and did not like it. I will not try the termite, another common Zambian dish. I’d much rather eat crocodile or snack, two animals most Zambians will not eat.

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Little Critters

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In the United States, “little critters” are best known as a children’s chewable vitamin brand. In Africa, this has an entirely different meaning. African “little critters” refer to the insects that invade your home looking for sustenance. They could be mosquitoes looking for blood, perhaps leaving behind malaria, or different types of spiders, the most common of which in Lusaka, Zambia are the “flattie” spiders so named because of their flat bodies (they can grow quite large with a leg span of up to several inches). Some are flying termites, gnats, putsi flies, or varied types of cockroaches. Most often, they are ants of many varieties, shapes and sizes ranging from tiny sugar ants to large army ants.

African homes are quite porous and make it easy for little critters to enter at will. Whether it’s the doors with gaps that leave ample room for entry or the holes in the concrete walls meant for ventilation but more often act as sieves, homes here are built with little thought given to keeping out the creepy crawlies that find them tantalizing targets. Occupants usually learn to live with them unless the “little critters” invade en masse or appear to be a physical threat. The mandibles of a large ant leave no doubt that one bite would hurt immensely.

We’ve learned to put up with the “little critters” for the most part, except when they take a liking to our kitchen or living quarters. When a stream of sugar ants attacks a morsel left on the kitchen counter, it’s time to dispatch them. When a spider preys too close to the bed, it meets a quick demise. Spraying poison inside the home is tricky business, and using clothes or paper towels to wipe them out is impractical when they come in great numbers. Thus, we usually put with them unless they cross our threshold of comfort. “Little critters” is one of the many aspects of life in Africa that makes living on this continent more challenging than in many other parts of the world.

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Victoria Falls and Iguaçu Falls

Click here to read a follow-on article about Victoria Falls and Iguaçu Falls with photos.

I’ve had the rare opportunity over the past year to visit two of the world’s largest waterfalls. I visited Iguaçu Falls on the Argentine-Brazilian border in February 2009 prior to leaving South America, where I had lived for two years. I just returned from a short weekend trip to Victoria Falls on the Zambian-Zimbabwean border, which is a six-hour trip from Lusaka, Zambia by car. As measured by water volume, these two waterfalls are two of the largest and arguably most spectacular waterfalls in the world.

It’s easy to make comparisons between the two. In truth, both waterfalls are equally impressive. They’re different, so it’s difficult to say whether one is “better” than the other. Iguaçu Falls is larger by volume and longer. It comprises numerous waterfalls that give it a layered effect, and it stretches over a longer distance than Victoria Falls. The Parana River above Iguaçu Falls collects at the top of the falls and cascades down over what must be a stretch of five miles or longer. At the same time, Iguaçu features a boardwalk on the Brazil side that puts you near the heart of the waterfall, the “Devil’s Throat” (La Garganta del Diablo).

Victoria Falls appears visually larger than its Latino counterpart. The sheer “in your face” effect it offers you while the Zambezi River spills over is incredible. The pathway on the Zambian side puts you very close to a massive wall of water that drops at least a couple hundred feet in front of you. Although I wore rain gear, I was soaking wet when I passed close to the falls – wetter than I was at Iguaçu.

Although I left Iguaçu Falls convinced that it is unsurpassed in its grandeur, Victoria Falls rivals it in intensely. Of course, visitors to either locale would undoubtedly insist that each waterfall is more impressive than the other. As an objective outsider, I believe that these two falls collectively rank as two of the more beautiful and awe inspiring natural wonders of the world. If you ever have a chance to visit either one, don’t miss out. You won’t be sorry spending the money and time to behold two of God’s greatest creations. In this respect, I feel blessed to have experienced both.