Xinjingshan

The Chinese call San Francisco, California “Jiujingshan,” or “Old Gold Mountain” in reference to the great California Gold Rush, when thousands of Chinese immigrated to the U.S. West Coast and sought their fortunes as gold miners.  The atmoshere in Shanghai today is so animated that one could call Shanghai “Xinjingshan,” or “New Gold Mountain.”  The most apt metaphor to describe the feeling here now is that of a “gold” rush where “gold” is the virtual accumulation of capital through booming economic growth.  So much money has been pumped into the local economy since 2001 by the government and foreign investment that the trickle-down effect in Shanghai truly is a torrent.  Real estate is the main currency changing hands, super-heating the local economy.  For example, peasants who once farmed land in suburban Shanghai sold off their farmland for urban development projects, earning a tidy sum that helped them buy new homes and farmland.  Retired workers with some money bought apartments and are now sitting on large capital gains.  Skilled workers have turned modest incomes into substantial real estate and investment portfolios.  Students who once turned to state-owned enterprises for jobs are now striking out on their own, hoping to get rich.  It is really quite amazing to see the changes here.  The changes in attitude that I wondered about when I visited Shanghai in 2002 have now begun to change at a rapid rate.  There are many have-nots, and the number of poor has risen dramatically in the new millennium.  However, for many Shanghainese, the recent development boom has very positive experience.

On Sunday I visited a gorgeous home located in suburban Shanghai.  Located about 15 kilometers from the city center, it is in one of many, many new suburban developments.  The new home cost about $350,000 for the lot and structure; the owner put many more thousands of dollars into the interior (in China, new home are unfinished, and the new owner must contract with interior design companies and construction firms to finish the interiors).  The house is located in an exclusive gated community.  The backyard fronts a canal formerly used as an irrigation waterway.  This community is much like any upscale American community and is one of hundreds recently developed or now under development in and around Shanghai.  I wondered who could afford all these new homes.  After all, the real estate market in Shanghai appears to be valued on par with that of Phoenix, Arizona, while the median per capita income of Chinese is less than 1/20 of Americans.  While Shanghainese are among the wealthiest in China, the median per capita income is still far below that of Americans.  So how can they buy these expensive homes?

The answer to this perplexing question is that increasing real estate values and entrepreneurial drive of Shanghainese has led to a dramatic increase in personal wealth over a very short period of time.  For many Shanghainese, the boom has led to instant wealth augmented by purchases of real estate and the accelerated appreciation of home and land values.  Locals who bought homes worth $50,000 in 1999 now live in $250,000 homes, and those who were smart enough to sell a $250,000 home in 2000 and buy two $125,000 homes now have two $300,000 homes.  Those who engage in home or business leasing have done even better.  While this is amazing and a mostly positive development for China, it leads me to wonder whether Shanghai–and China–face the possibility of economic bust in the next decade.  It is very difficult to sustain such high rates of economic growth and a real estate boom without eventual downturns–even recessions.  If and when a downturn happens, it does not bode well for an area like Shanghai now highly dependent on continued aggressive economic growth.

 

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Greetings from Shanghai

Greetings from Shanghai!  We arrived without incident on Saturday morning.  My wife’s family picked us up at the airport and took us to their home in a van.  We spent several hours at their place eating lunch, catching up with family, and eating dinner (eating is a perpetual activity in China).  Easter morning was quiet.  We did not have a church to attend in China, marking the first time I’ve ever missed church on Easter Sunday.  It’s something I always make a point to do, but this time we did not have a church home to attend.  A friend’s friend we tried to connect with could not attend on Sunday morning because she had to work and planned to attend on another day.  It’s hard to find a good church home in a place like Shanghai, especially when you’ve just arrived.  Instead, we spent a quiet morning by ourselves reflecting on the meaning of Easter.  Dear Reader, I hope you also had a good, peaceful Easter weekend.

Yesterday afternoon I went with family and friends to visit Thames Town.  It was fabulous as expected, although it is quite far from town.  It truly does feel like a quaint part of England nestled in China.  The town is under construction and not quite yet open for business.  Land use about 1/4 commercial and 3/4 residential.  The town features a small cathedral and two college campuses as well as a variety of small shops and domiciles.  A British firm is in charge of engineering Thames Town, and I think they’ve done a good job at building an authentic-looking place.  There appear to be covenants in place requiring that the store owners and residents retain the look and feel of the town.  It may seem odd to visit Thames Town, but after seeing it featured on CNN.com, I couldn’t resist traveling to such an intriguing place.  I’ve seen many of Shanghai’s most popular sites on previous visits, so I wanted to see something entirely new.  Tomorrow night we will visit Xintiandi, another new entertainment, mixed-use area in Shanghai with a traditional Chinese theme.  I hear that it’s one of the new hot spots in Shanghai.  I probably won’t have time to visit any of the other eight new internationally-themed areas, including German Town, Czech Town, and Norway Town.  Thames Town is it for now.  Perhaps I’ll see them on my next tour.

 

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Change of Scenery

Dear Reader, I anticipate that I won’t have time to blog tomorrow night, and I’ll be preoccupied in Shanghai with family over the weekend.  This may be my last entry for a few days.  I will write again early next week, perhaps sooner.  In the meantime, I’ll leave you with some general thoughts on China and musings about changes transforming this immense and fascinating place.  Having married into a Chinese family, I am far more intimated to Chinese culture than Korean culture.  Traveling to China is like meeting up with a long-time friend, and I’m looking forward to visiting the Middle Kingdom again.

This will be my fourth trip to China in 12 years.  I’ve seen some remarkable changes in this amazing country since my first trip in 1994, and I expect that China will have changed even more since my last visit in 2002.  It is perhaps the most dynamic place on earth at the moment, and our destination, Shanghai, is the epicenter.  I am looking forward to seeing not only the architectural changes that have revolutionized and modernized the city but also changes in the mindset of its residents.

When I first visited China in 1994, Shanghai had just begun its current push to become the economic center of East Asia.  The Pearl of the Orient Tower was one of the few buildings standing in Pudong New City, a new commercial development situated across from the Bund, the downtown waterfront and former British concession.  By 2002, Pudong had been largely developed.  Despite the city’s architectural transformation, during my 2002 visit, I noted that Shanghai residents remained somewhat parochial and lacked the cosmopolitan paradigm of peer cities such as London and New York.  During my upcoming visit, I plan to observe how attitudes have changed in China over the past four years.  Chinese have always been a proud people, but what is new in Chinese minds’ is a sense of destiny, that China will reclaim its position as the center of the known world.  Until the 1700’s, China was the strongest, most powerful realm in Asia.  It is on its way to becoming so again.  What remains to be seen is whether the Chinese can channel its newfound enthusiasm and energy into becoming a place that is fully integrated with the rest of the world.  It may with time.  This is not intended to upset ethnic Chinese who might read this–it is a realistic assessment of a nation that is moving so rapidly into modernity that it cannot possibly mature until it slows down.

We have several activities planned during our visit.  On Saturday we arrive in Shanghai and will be met by family at Pudong International Airport.  I wanted to take the high-speed Maglev train from the airport to downtown, but the family would rather pick us up by car (high-speed train and private automobiles–yet another change in China since the 1990’s).  On Saturday evening we have a dinner planned with family.  Sunday is Easter.  We have a friend who will take us to church (yet another change since the Cultural Revolution–the spread Christianity has spread dramatically since the start of economic reform period of the 1980’s.  Then, as mentioned earlier, we will visit Thames Town on Sunday afternoon (a very recent change–suburban, planned communities).  On Monday I will go to work at an office in a large mall.  I never would have thought that one day I would be working in a mall in China.  The changes are absolutely amazing.

 

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