The New Silk Road

Today I read about a landmark agreement that went into effect a couple weeks ago.  The Asian Highway Agreement went into effect on July 5, 2005.  The agreement, signed by 32 countries, including North Korea, will spur the development of a 141,000 kilometer highway network spanning Asia from Turkey to Japan, crossing through all 32 countries that signed the agreement.  The agreement was negotiated under the auspices of the United Nations Economic and Social Commission for Asia and Pacific (UNESCAP).  A more comprehensive highway plan will be released in 2006.  The project was originally proposed by the UN in 1959, but it was shelved due to the Cold War.  The project is ambitious and fraught with immense potential and potentially disastrous pitfalls.  If completed, it would be the world’s largest highway network.  It would also constitute the first major effort to spur trans-continental commerce in Asia since the development of the legendary Silk Road linking China to Europe.
 
A trans-Asian highway network would benefit isolated, landlocked nations such as Uzbekistan and regions such as Xinjiang Province in China that lack adequate transportation infrastructure.  It would also help break down political barriers, notably between North Korea and South Korea.  It’s assumed that traffic transitting North Korea would be restricted and heavily monitored, yet it would still be an important step in linking North Korea to the global community.  The highway network would promote trade between non-traditional trading partners such as Mongolia and Kazakhstan.  It would also give South Korea a land-based link to the rest of Asia.  Currently, the tense border between the two Koreas prevents South Korea from importing or exporting goods overland through North Korea.  South Korea is essentially an island, although it is in reality the southern portion of a peninsula.  A functional highway through North Korea would help restore that reality.  Just as a bridge from Copenhagen, Denmark to Goteberg, Sweden linked Scandinavia to the rest of Europe, so also would a trans-Asian highway open South Korea to ground-based commerce.  Currently, South Korea’s land-based commerce either terminates at the Kaesong Industrial Complex in Kaesong or at Geumgang Mountain in eastern North Korea.  Neither is more than 50 miles north of the Korean DMZ.
 
A trans-Asian highway would also open up a Pandora’s box of potential pitfalls.  For one, it would likely promote the freer movement of traffickers and terrorists in Asia.  For years, Panama has refused to build a link between the North and South American portions of the trans-American highway primarily due to fears increased illicit activity, namely drugs and paramilitary activity emanating from Colombia.  To many Panamanians, stopping illegal activity trumps the benefits of a trans-American highway.  Asia’s lack of adequate vehicle infrastructure has impeded the flow of illicit activity.  A trans-Asian highway would also be an easy target for terrorists.  Asian oil pipelines are a favorite terrorist target, and this highway would be as well.  The risk to human life while driving through large areas with inhospitable climates and hostile driving conditions would be significant.  Imagine driving your Fiat from Italy to China and worrying about a flat tire, overheating, or a personal attack while driving in the middle of nowhere.   I don’t think if I had an opportunity to drive the entire highway I would do so, particularly through central Asia (then again, maybe I’m crazy enough to try it).  I think flying or taking the train would be much safer alternatives.  In addition, a trans-Asian highway would require extensive environmental engineering, likely contributing to environmental degradation.  It’s interesting to note that the UN is spearheading a project that so obviously adversely affects the environment on a grand scale.
 
Nevertheless, it appears that momentum is building for the highway network to be built.  While it’s too early to tell whether early momentum will result in the completion of this ambitious project, it’s important for United Nations and the 32 nations that signed this agreement to minimize these potential pitfalls.  If the highway is ever completed and functional, it would likely take more than a decade to complete.  It will be intriguing to see what the UNESCAP will put forward as a plan in 2006.  No matter what, I hope they will have the foresight to build gas stations and rest areas every 50 kilometers; otherwise, there will be many an unhappy visitor with an incapacitated vehicle stranded in the middle of Mongolia.

The Monsoon Swoon

We’re in the middle of what I call "The Monsoon Swoon."  It is a literal and proverbial time of the year when life can feel a bit blasé.  Work is hopping as I try to get a couple of Americans out of the country.  However, our home life during the past couple of weeks seems to reflect the persistent monsoon season—it feels methodical, cyclical, and steady.  I don’t mean that life is depressing or melancholy; rather, it feels a bit meandering.  We are like branches and twigs floating in a steadily flowing river known as life.  Activities pass us by like debris, and tasks descend upon us like rivulets of water.  Life feels common and uneventful, yet always somewhat hectic as it pulls us along.  Above the busy undercurrents of life floats a persistent sameness.  All the while, interesting, enticing scenery surrounds us.  Such is life, ever progressing, oft restless, sometimes turbulent, and sometimes calm.

The Monsoon Swoon is a time when one anticipates the future while trying to enjoy the present, sobered by nostalgia for the recent past when life felt a lot more eventful.  In the U.S., this is a time one might describe as the "dog days of summer." In Korea, this time of the year might be more aptly described as the "raining cats and dogs days of summer."  It is a time when one wistfully looks forward to the day when the rain stops and the sweltering heat begins.  It’s a time when you might dare to look forward to the gorgeous fall season—until you realize that if it were fall, then the unforgiving winter would be fast approaching.

Although it rained today, the monsoon season this year has been drier than expected. The weather has been muggy but bearably cool.  Yesterday, the lawn dried out enough for me to mow, and I harvested the lush, grassy field.  My son and I headed to the pool again on Sunday so he could continue to learn how to swim.  I’m so proud of him.  He grabbed hold of a buoy, and I let him go and watched him kick his feet, propelling his body slightly forward. The buoy and life preserver kept him afloat. I returned the audio accessory I bought to fix the sound problem I’m having with the VCR I bought, and I resigned myself to return it to the e-tailer and buy a new VCR.  My family went back to Costco to buy a beautiful set of china my wife eyed during our last visit. On Saturday, I put in some overtime, and in the evening we joined our neighbors in Itaewon for dinner. We also visited a second-hand store, where my wife loaded up on a handful toys for my son. It was an incredible deal, but I have decided that second-hand stores are not my cup of tea.  All of these activities kept us busy over the past couple of days, and I enjoyed them.  Still, like the monsoon season, they were all familiar and cyclical.  They are all common diversions from “The Monsoon Swoon.”

Namsan Hanok Village

Today we said goodbye to our good friend Trudy who came to visit us for a few days.  She’s on her way now back to the U.S. to stay for a month.  Before she left, we took her to Namsam Hanok Village, a place filled with traditional Korean architecture.  After having spent most of her time visiting Seoul’s many markets, she wanted a glimpse of something very different.  We wanted to take her to the Korean Folk Village south of Seoul, but we didn’t have time.   I didn’t even know about Namsan Hanok Village until I heard about it this morning.  It’s a gem of a place near downtown Seoul on the northern flank of Namsan, the mountain crowned by Seoul Tower.  It’s a welcome alternative to the palaces, markets, and shopping centers one can visit ad nauseum in Seoul.  The simplicity of the homes gathered in this village, surrounded by lush greenery, is calming and serene.  When we visited, the Seoullites were not yet out in full force.  A lack of people added to pleasantry of the place.  I posted several photos of the village for your viewing pleasure.
 
According to Lonely Planet, Namsan Hanok Village is a group of authentic, historic homes moved from their original locations around Seoul and deposited together in a single location.  Consolidating treasures may seem a bit contrived, almost artificial.  However, I appreciate that Seoul had the foresight to preserve these treasures in one accessible location.  Egypt consolidated two temples at Abu Simbel to avoid submerging them when it built Aswan Dam and created Lake Nasser.  Consolidating is much better than submerging, demolishing or giving away historic treasures.  Namsan Hanok Village is a hidden treasure.  It is not well advertised and is not prominently displayed in any Korea guide book I’ve seen.  If you visit Seoul and don’t have time to visit one of any of the traditional Korean villages located throughout the country, be sure to make a trip to Namsan Hanok Village.  It’s free too.  The Joseon Dynasty period boy and girl mascots roaming the village are a bit over the top, but my son found them fascinating and let us take a picture of him with them.
 
I had more trouble with technology today.  It seems as if every time I buy a new piece of technology I run into trouble.  I haven’t boughten any new electronics for awhile, so I almost forgot the frustrating feeling that comes with troubleshooting technology.  I do DVD conversion as a hobby (transferring VHS and digital video formats to DVDs), and I needed an easy way to upload VHS video footage to my computer.  I have all the pieces I need to create DVDs, and I’ve done it successfully in the past.  I grew tired of borrowing the living room VCR, so I thought I would buy a cheap VCR to use exclusively with my computer.  I bought a VCR from Wal-Mart.com for $39.99.  The VCR is fine, but there’s a compatibility problem between the VCR and my computer.  I use a converter called Dazzle DVC 80 that connects electronics such as VCRs to computers.  The video streams from the VCR to computer via Dazzle just fine, but the audio isn’t working.  As a result, when I upload video footage and play, it plays like a silent movie.  That just won’t do.  I think it’s because the Dazzle DVC 80 has dual left-right audio inputs, while the VCR I bought has a single audio input.  I have to do some research to figure out what I need to do to fix the problem.  The Dazzle DVC 80 also has an S-video input, so I may have to pay a little more for a VCR with an S-video output.  The most frustrating thing is that this always seems to happen.  I buy a new gadget, open the box, flip the switch, and it doesn’t work.  That’s technology for you.  It’s your best friend and worst enemy.