A bit closer to Korean culture

Tonight I joined some new acquaintances for dinner at a local seafood restaurant.  I met them during a recent Fourth of July celebration.  They graciously invited my family for dinner this evening.  My wife had planned to attend but had an unfortunate conflict, so instead I joined the two of them by myself at a great little restaurant not far from where I work.  The establishment served traditional Korean dishes, many of which I have never eaten before.  We feasted on Korean sushi, octopus, kimchi, beef and Asian radish, clams, cabbage soup, fish, and several other dishes.  We drank delicious, smooth Korean rice wine.  The meal was a delight to the palate.  It was a shame that they brought so much food that we couldn’t eat it all.
 
One of my Korean acquaintances spoke very little English.  However, she did speak some Chinese.  The other acquaintance had lived in Germany for awhile, so throughout the dinner we spoke a hodge podge of languages.  At different times we spoke English, Chinese, German, and Korean.  It was fun to mix up languages and butcher each one of them, but somehow manage to carry on a fluid, diverse conversation.  Our conversation drifted from topic to topic.  In my insatiable desire to learn more about Korea, I asked question after question about Korean culture and etiquette.  I gleaned many pearls of wisdom from my acquaintances about what it means to be Korean and why Koreans do what they do.  I shared my own insights into American culture, and we agreed that once we found common ground that bridged American and Korean culture, we had a lot in common.  We agreed that miscommunication and misinterpretation are often the biggest barriers to building mutual understanding between Koreans and foreigners.  Don’t get me wrong–the evening was a lot of fun and was not merely an exposition of Korean culture.  We all agreed that it was nice to get out and socialize for a change (they also spend most of their nights at home with their families).  Nevertheless, the evening was very much one of those occasions when cultural differences stand front and center.  When you’re surrounded by those who share the same cultural mindset, it’s easy to forget about cultural differences because they tend to be minimal.  However, when you spend time with someone who is from another country and has never been to yours, culture looms large.
 
My acquaintances are the first Koreans I’ve spent time with who have never visited the United States.  It was a great opportunity for me get to know Koreans who have not had exposure to the U.S. and who know few other foreigners.  I noted some of the common cultural differences prone to misinterpretation, and I pointed these out to my acquaintances when needed.  For example, when one acquaintance picked up the bill, I offered to pay instead.  He gave me a look that said, "Why are you even asking?"  I explained that in the U.S. it is common courtesy to at least offer to pay all or a portion of the bill.  Even if it is a feigned ritual, and the one who offers to pay has no intention to pay at all, it is still polite to do so in American culture.  In China, and I’m assuming in Korea as well, the one who extends the invitation generally pays the bill.  Instead, I promised to have them over for dinner to thank them for their hospitality.  Tonight it rained heavily.  When the rain stopped, we departed.  They offered me an umbrella.  Of course, as an American I was negligent in bringing an umbrella.  On the other hand, they had brought an extra one and gave it to me.  At first I declined their offer because doing so would have required me to return it to them at a later date.  Self-reliance, not depending on others, is an American virtue.  They insisted, saying that the polluted Korean rain would cause my hair to fall out.  I thought this was absurb and mused, I’m an American; I don’t need an umbrella.  I took it anyway.  In this instance, Korean courtesy trumped American self-reliance.

Meeting up with a World Adventurer

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of meeting for the first time someone who has been reading my blog.  Courtney came to Korea for the day on her way home from a trip to Viet Nam.  She lives in California and works for a company that frequently sends her to Southeast Asia.  She went out of her way to come to Seoul from Incheon Airport so we could have lunch today!  I was very honored.  She wanted to meet my family too, but unfortunately they couldn’t make it.  Courtney said she’s been reading World Adventurers off and on for quite some time and wanted to meet me in person.  She is a very nice person, and we had a splendid time.  It turns out that she is a good friend of one of my colleagues working in Viet Nam.  It’s a small world for globetrotters like us.
 
At noon yesterday, she came to my workplace, and we went out to eat to a local bulgogi restaurant.  She asked me whether I think Korea is really like what I write about in World Adventurers.  Yes, and no, I answered.  I try to be as honest as I can without intentionally offending, and sometimes I tone down my own opinions.  Korea has its share of frustrations, but it has also been a wonderful place to live.  Blogging to me is a bit like writing an autobiography.  It’s a chronicle of my life that occasionally glosses over reality.  Then again, very rarely will you find a completely honest autobiography.  The author always wants to look good and avoid controversy.  I asked her if there were any topics she thought I should write about, and she mentioned she would enjoy reading about cross-cultural marriages because my wife is from China.  I told her I usually avoid talking too much about my relationship with my wife out of respect for her, but I do think I can give tips on making international marriages work.  Many people marry spouses from other cultures.  Most don’t realize when they marry just how much more difficult a cross-cultural relationship can be.  It takes a lot of effort to make it work.
 
In case you’re wondering, she gave me permission to talk about our get together.  If you’re ever in Seoul and want to meet up while I’m here, let me know.  I’m not shy. 

End of a long week

I just woke up from a long nap and still feel a bit
groggy.  My drowsiness is a natural reaction to what was a very
long week.  We are short-staffed at the office while a colleague
is on vacation, and we have to do about a
third more work per person while they’re gone.  Today I went
to Jongam in northeast Seoul to visit an American who’s in
trouble.  I drove through one of the nicest parts of Seoul to get
there, an area known as Seongbuk.  It’s situated in the hills just
northeast of the Blue House, the Korean presidential
residence.  Seongbuk felt a bit like Beverly Hills,
California, with ritzy, gated homes clinging to the hillsides. 
I’m sure that many of Korea’s wealthiest executives make their homes in
those hills.  The commercial area of Seongbuk reminded me of an
upscale version of Adams Morgan, one of the more colorful areas of
Washington, D.C.
 
When I returned to the office, I wrapped up my work for the week
and waited to join my family and some coworkers for dinner.  My
office mate organized a get together for new arrivals and their
sponsors.  We met together after work and went together to Bukchon
Kalguksu Restaurant (북촌 갈국사) just to the east of Gyeongbok
Palace.  Handmade noodle soup (손갈국사) is this restaurant’s
specialty.  The soup and mandu (만두), or minced meat wrapped in
wonton wrappers, were delicious.  I shared some soju (소주), a
smooth, potato-based liquor, with a colleague.  It was
nice to have some soju for the first time in a long
time.  Unfortunately, between the soju, hot weather, and spicy
food, I felt a bit light headed.  Perhaps I overheated, or maybe I
was just tired.  I felt really unsettled while I was eating and
couldn’t wait to go and get some fresh air.  We went home soon
thereafter, and I headed to bed and took a long nap.  I feel
better now.  I’ll still sleep very well tonight.
 
My wife asked tonight whether her sister, who lives in
Shanghai, could come visit us in Seoul.  I agreed.  She
gave her sister a call tonight to see if she’s interested, and she said
yes.  We will have to write a letter on her behalf inviting
her to visit us.  I’m confident she will be eligible
to visit us in Korea.  In the past, she has been refused a
U.S. tourist visa; however, I’m optimistic that this time she will
qualify for a Korean visa.  If she gets her Korean visa, I think
in the long run it will help her qualify for a U.S. tourist visa if she
wants to visit us in the United States.  She definitely does not
want to immigrate to the U.S., but the burden of proof
for Chinese who want to qualify for visas to visit the U.S. is
very, very high.  Visiting Korea and returning to China will show
that she has traveled overseas without immigrating.  It gives
her a track record.
 
Baidu.com‘s underwriters seem
to be getting a bit greedy.  If you recall, I wrote a blog entry
earlier this week about whether to buy Baidu.com.  It seems that
Baidu upped its IPO price to $27/share because it has generated an
amazing amount of buzz.  I put in an order to buy it at the high
end of its price range yesterday–$25/share.  $25/share is already
overpriced, in my opinion.  $27/share is merely hype
chasing.  I refuse to up my order to buy at $27/share.  My
blog entry on Baidu.com seems to be getting a lot of traction on Google
with so many curious folks doing searches, trying to figure out whether
to buy the American Depository Shares of a relatively unknown Chinese
search engine company.  Between my discussion of Baidu and
CNOOC, World Adventurers had more hits this week than it usually
has in one month.