Our first Korean wedding

Today we attended our first Korean wedding.  Joey, one of my good friends and fellow University of Washington alumnus, married his sweetheart at a wedding hall in the Jamsil area, not far from the site of the Seoul Summer Olympics.  The wedding ceremony, reception, and photo shoots were fascinating.  I was happy to attend the event, not only to wish my friend and his bride well, but also to experience a side of Korean culture I rarely see.  The wedding ceremony was a western-style affair, although the photo shoot included tradional Korean wedding poses.  The reception was held in a large banquet room.  I was stunned by all the hustle and bustle surrounding the event.  People attending several different weddings simultaneously milled around the reception area at the wedding hall.  We snaked through the crowds and found the check-in counter for my friend, signed in, and gave the attendant our wedding gift.  We gave our friend 100,000 Korean won (about $100) in a decorative envelope.  My coworker told me that guests typically give the happy couple 50,000 won to offset the cost of the wedding; good friends give up to 100,000 won.  Korean weddings are typically very expensive.
 
Joey waited near the check-in counter, and he greeted us warmly when we arrived.  He ushered us into the wedding hall, where Bart, another friend and alumnus, waited.  (I last saw Bart in the COEX Mall at a student emigration fair in March.)  Bart served as our guide for the rest of the event.  We sat to the back of the hall in case we needed to make a quick exit to attend to our son.  Fortunately, he had fallen asleep and slept through the entire ceremony.  I was a shutterbug, taking dozens of photos at the event.  As the ceremony began, I found an ideal location to capture the best moments of the wedding, some of which I will post here soon.  I was struck by how noisy it was during the ceremony.  While the groom, bride, ring bearers, and immediate families marched to the front of the hall and participated in the ceremony, guests sitting at the back of the hall carried on conversations.  The hall doors stayed open, and hallway commotion poured into the hall.  It was an unfamiliar and distracting nuisance to someone like me who is used to sitting through muted American church weddings.  Somehow though, the noise was an appropriate reflection of a Korean culture that values social interaction.  The wedding ceremony was truly gorgeous.  The room was beautiful, and the decor was very tasteful.  A trio of musicians on piano, flute and violin played festive wedding music.  The ceremony was also high-tech, with video of the ceremony projected on two large screens at the front of the room.  The happy couple exchanged vows, and at the end of the ceremony they bowed to their families.  Before exiting the hall, in lieu of a wedding kiss, my friend let out three triumphant yells and stretched out his arms three times.  Although similar to an American-style wedding, my friend’s wedding was uniquely Korean.
 
After the ceremony, we joined the newlywed couple for photos.  Unlike in the U.S., where friends typically pose for individual photos with the bride and groom, a large group gathered around the couple for a single group photo.  I was the only Caucasian in the entire event, and I joked to Bart, "백명 한국사람 하고 한명 백인 있어요!" (Translation–"One white guy and 100 Koreans!"  It’s meant to be a funny wordplay, because the word for "white guy" is similar to the word for 100, and the word for Korean is similar to the Korean word for "one."  Koreans often use Korean wordplays to express humor.)  Bart laughed. 
 
We then went upstairs to the reception hall.  We sat with Bart and Peter, another college friend.  I noticed that the video projected at the reception was a feed from the wedding hall.  Workers in the video were busy preparing the hall for the next wedding.  I thought it interesting that you can watch the next wedding as it happens while you’re at your own reception.  The food was delicious.  We ate galbitang (갈비탕), or short-rib soup.  The table was filled with delicious side dishes, including salmon sashimi and a variety of kimchi.  Partway through the reception, we offered a toast to the newlyweds.  I wish we could have stayed longer to eat and visit, but the reception hall cleared out quickly in anticipation of the next wedding group.  One unfortunate aspect of marrying at a wedding hall is that it can feel rushed and impersonal, almost like an assembly line where you’re herded from one location to the next hurriedly.  Pardon the sports metaphor, but much like golf, a wedding at a wedding hall tees off on time, and the wedding party must move on before the next party tees up.  Still, wedding halls are good at what they do and take care of virtually everything for you.  Imagine not having to plan your wedding beyond your wedding attire.  Wedding halls are professional wedding planners.
 
After the reception, all of my friends gathered for some group photos.  We went to where Joey and his bride and their family gathered to take photos.  They wore hanbok (한복), or traditional Korean clothing.  The newlyweds re-enact excerpts from a traditional Korean wedding and capture the memories in photos.  Following the photo shoot, we joined the bride and groom for a couple of photos.  We were thrilled to be able to participate in something normally reserved for family.
 
On our way home from the wedding, we stopped at Hangang Park along the south bank of the Han River, which runs through Seoul.  We stumbled upon the Seoul International Kite Festival.  The park was filled with people flying all sorts of kites ranging from small butterfly kites to a giant dragon kite and a group of ten kites strung together, one on top of the other.  My family had a great time walking in the park, along the river, and enjoying ice cream.
 
Blog Notes:  I finally decided to post some personal photos of our family in the photos from the wedding.  Enjoy!  Also, my wife says the font I use is too small and hard to read, so I’ll try a different font and make it larger.  Hopefully this size is easier to read.  It will take up a lot more real estate, but I aim to please.

Greetings from Haeundae!

I’m writing you in the business center at the lovely 5-star Paradise Hotel in Haeundae, Korea.  I’m about 14 kilometers from Pusan.  I was happy to find out the hotel that has free Internet access so I can post at least a short blog entry today.  The hotel is very nice.  It sits on the waterfront overlooking Korea’s most popular beach.  During the summer, up to 90,000 visitors a day flock to Haeundae to enjoy the beach.  It isn’t quite Waikiki, Hawaii, but Haeundae is definitel a nice resort town.  I’m glad that it’s fall now, because I can enjoy the town and the beach in relative peace and quiet.  In mid-November, this place will change dramatically as Haeundae hosts the upcoming APEC Summit.  In fact, today the power went off several times at the hotel as engineers ran test power outages in advance of the APEC Summit.
 
I came down here for work.  I will help Americans for a couple of days before returning to Seoul.  My family is coming along for the ride.  I could not have asked for a better job assignment.  I wanted to come down to help out with APEC Summit preparations, but it was not meant to be.  I’m more than happy to settle for this assignment, because I hear that those who will be involved with APEC will be scrounging around for places to sleep.  My room is comfortable with a gorgeous view of the beach and the East Sea (a.k.a. Sea of Japan).  Sometimes this job is so tough.  Someone has to do it!  🙂
 
My wife and son arrive soon.  They are taking the KTX train to Pusan like I did yesterday.  My son is absolutely fascinated by trains, and his appetite for all things "Thomas" (Thomas the Tank Engine) is insatiable.  Riding the KTX train will be a joy for him, at least for part of the trip.  I hope he gets a window seat so he can see the Korean countryside.  One of his favorite "Thomas the Tank Engine" characters is Spencer, the sleek, modern silver train owned by the Duke and Duchess.  We told my son before the trip that he will ride on Spencer to see daddy, and he grew very excited.  The trip is short–about 2.5 hours–so it should keep him preoccupied for awhile.  I hope his mom was able to manage him without consternation! 
 
I will try to write again tomorrow about Pusan.  From what I have seen, it’s a beautiful city hugging the coastline and cradling the mountains inside the city limits.  It’s one of the world’s largest seaports, and it has a great seaport atmosphere.  If you visit Korea and have time, take a journey out of Seoul on the KTX and visit Pusan.

An observation

I am at work tonight, wrapping up some important projects before I take the day off tomorrow.  As it is my anniversary, I probably will not write a blog entry tomorrow (if I do, I better give my wife a good reason).  In fact, I could be offline for the next few days.  Tomorrow my wife and I will go hiking, and we will have dinner at Bonasera Italian Restaurant in Gangnam, which I hear is highly recommended by the Italian Embassy (you can’t beat a recommendation like that).  On Wednesday, I will start the day at work, say goodbye to a coworker who is retiring after 20 years of service, and then I’ll hit the road with another coworker.  We’ll head to Daegu via KTX train to visit a couple of Americans in the afternoon, and then we’ll travel to Pusan to assist Americans on Thursday and Friday.  It’s my first trip to Pusan, and I’m looking forward to it.  My family will join me on Thursday evening, and we will tour Pusan together on Saturday before heading home.  Although Korea is a very wired country, I do not know how much time or opportunity I will have to go online and update this blog.  I will definitely be back online to update World Adventurers by Saturday evening, though.  All commentators need to take a break now and then, right?  One of these days I’ll invite a special guest or sidekick to write for me.  Perhaps my cousin and ever faithful blog reader, Wade3016, will fill in for me.  He’s been quiet here lately, but I’m sure with a mere mention of his name he will post a comment.  His interests are a little different than mine, but he is very entertaining.
 
So, Dear Reader, until I can write again, I leave you with this observation:
 
As I drove to work tonight around 9 p.m., I saw a schoolgirl waiting at an intersection in downtown Seoul.  Dressed in her school uniform, she was alone, not at all like the multitudes of schoolgirls I saw today wandering the streets at about 3:30 p.m.  She carried a book bag.  She looked tired.  She could not have been older than 12 years old.  To a Korean, she is considered diligent.  She probably finished up her English lesson at the hagwon (학원), a Korean term for a private, evening English language institute.  She will probably head home via the subway to her family’s apartment somewhere in Seoul and will study at home for another two or three hours.  Around midnight, she may head to bed, or she might stay up later and study some more.  Either way, four hours after going to bed, she will probably get up again to start another school day.  Upon seeing this girl, an American would ask questions.  Why is this girl walking downtown in a big city alone at night?  Why does she have to study so long and so hard?  Isn’t private tutoring expensive?  Why are her parents allowing this or forcing her to do this?  Isn’t it dangerous?  How can any kid sleep four hours every night and survive? 
 
This girl reminded me of how different Korean culture can be from American culture.  While I understand the Korean desire to educate children, I never want my son to have to come home alone after 9 p.m. after a long day at the hagwon.  I hope he will be successful, but I could never drive him to such excess for the sake of success.  Korean children are brilliant, but I think the Korean education system is very hard on Korean children.