Random observations about Korea

How was your Christmas, Dear Reader?  We had a nice Christmas at home.  Some of our family friends came over on Christmas Day to celebrate the holiday with us.  I hope you also had a wonderful Christmas or Chanukkah, if you celebrate either one of them.
 
I had the day off from work today.  In the morning, I went to a dentist’s appointment.  Most Koreans went back to work today; I’m glad to have had an extra day off.  In the afternoon, my wife and I had lunch at a Greek restaurant in Itaewon called "Santorini" and then went shopping.  We left our son home with our nanny.  It was nice to get away for a change and have some quality time for ourselves.  My wife finally bought a new wallet, and I made her promise to throw away her old one.  The faux leather has severely cracked, and she was using a paper clip as a makeshift zipper.  Her new red leather wallet is a nice upgrade.  In the afternoon, we stopped by Starbucks for some coffee and then went to E-Mart for more shopping.
 
I am always on the lookout for new and interesting observations about Korean culture.  Four came to light today.  I had planned to write about two of them, but I figured I might as well pass them all on to you.  In the morning when I went to the dentist, I passed by a group of elderly Koreans cleaning up a neighborhood.  I might not have given it another thought, but then I recalled a recent article I read in Seoul Magazine about elderly Koreans’ dedication to recycling and conservation in Korea.  I was amazed that a group of elderly Koreans, perhaps in their 70’s, would venture out on an absolutely freezing morning after Christmas to clean up the neighborhood.  The article mentioned that recycling in Korea is generally unprofitable and that the elderly do it mainly as a public service.  The Korean War and its aftermath significantly impacted the psyche of the elderly, and many grew up during long periods of tremendous scarcity.  I really admire their dedication.
 
I made my first visit to a Korean dentist today.  His office was filled with memorabilia from his alma mater, the State University of New York at Buffalo.  Dentists often post their credentials and diplomas on the wall for patients to see.  However, this dentist went so far as to prominently display posters of Buffalo and the university campus, alumni bumper stickers, and other varsity products.  I found his dedication a bit amusing.  It also reminded me just how much Koreans value an American university diploma.  Whether they graduate from Harvard University or from Podunk College, Koreans prize American college degrees because they are highly regarded in Korea.  Many equivalent degrees from top U.S. schools are held in higher esteem than degrees from top Korean schools.  I wondered why so many Korean students would work so hard to get into top Korean schools when they could earn a degree just as highly regarded from a U.S. school.  In some respects, it appears more difficult to earn admission to an elite Korean school through the rigorous college entrance exam than to be admitted to a top U.S. school.
 
At "Santorini" Greek restaurant, my wife and I dreamed about living someday in Greece.  We were not quite so enamored with the food.  Greek is one of my favorite cuisines, and Seoul has just two Greek restaurants, "Santorini" in Itaewon and a gyros joint near Ehwa Woman’s University.  We ate gyros, but they did not taste quite like they do in the United States.  For one, our only meat choices were limited to pork or chicken, not beef and lamb, as are more typical in Greek cuisine.  The avgolemono, a lemon chicken soup, was too brothy.  Following our meal, I asked the restaurant owner why they did not serve dolmathes, one of my favorite Greek dishes.  (Dolmathes are grape leaves stuffed with rice and minced lamb and served hot or cold with a side of tzatziki sauce.)  The owner commented that they cannot buy grape leaves in Korea.  It reminded me that some ethnic foods are virtually impossible to reproduce in Korea.  Likewise, I imagine that Korean food is nearly impossible to find in some parts of the world.  I wondered how many Korean restaurants are in Athens, Greece.  Not many, I reckon.  Good luck finding kimchi near the Aegean Sea.
 
At Starbucks, I met an American businessman who has lived in Korea for over two decades.  Out of curiosity, I asked him if he knew four long-time American expatriates I met in Seoul.  He said he knew every single one of them personally!  I met all four of them on different occasions for different reasons.  It reinforces the fact that the long-term American expatriate community in Korea is extremely small.  If we were to stay longer, I too would become, for better or for worse, part of this small circle of American expatriates living in Seoul.  It definitely does away with one’s ability to remain anonymous for long.

Christmas scenes in Seoul

Tonight my family and I ventured out in the cold to see the Christmas scenes in Seoul.  The central district of Seoul, Jongno-gu, forms a large triangle.  To the south lies Seoul City Hall.  To the northeast sits Insadong Market, and to the northwest, Gyeongbok Palace forms the apex of the triangle.  Cheonggyecheon Stream, recently unearthed and developed into a city park, bisects this triangle.  The area between Cheonggyecheon Stream to the north and Seoul City Hall to the south is the Myeongdong Shopping District.  This small section of Seoul is brilliantly lit with thousands of Christmas lights and sprinkled with Christmas scenes.  It’s quite a beautiful site to behold.  I posted some of the best photos, Dear Reader, to give you a glimpse of the gorgeous Christmas scenes you can see in downtown Seoul.
 
The morning dawned with a dusting of snow.  The temperature today was cold but not frigid.  By nightfall however, the temperature dropped considerably and the wind picked up.  It was extremely cold outside!  Korea is not as cold as Siberia, but it was still bone chilling.  We braved the cold and started our evening in Namdaemun Market, where we shopped for Christmas toys.  The market was festive with myriad colorful lights strung above our heads and small shops converted into makeshift Christmas stores.  Don’t let the photos fool you, though.  It was far cold than the evening appears in the photos I posted.  It must have been miserable for the Namdaemun Market vendors who stayed out in the cold, trying to earn a few thousand extra won from cold passersby.
 
Following our trip to the market, we took a taxi to Cheonggyecheon Stream and walked along the stream for a couple of blocks, snapping photos amidst a crowd of amateur photographers.  After that, we took our son to a coffee shop and stayed there for awhile, drinking hot cocoa and sharing a pastry.  We ended our journey at Seoul City Hall, taking a few final photos of the large Christmas tree and snowflake castle displays beside the City Hall ice rink.  Although we were freezing, the Christmas scenes in downtown Seoul made the trip worthwhile.  Our son was a trooper for braving the cold with us.  He thoroughly enjoyed the trip.  Every so often, we asked him, "Are you cold?" to which he answered, "Nope.  It’s cold outside." 
 
Blog Notes:  Well, the uncertainty about Dr. Hwang’s fate lasted just one day after I mentioned his case.  Dr. Hwang Woo-Suk resigned today from his professorship at Seoul National University after the school found that his team faked nine of 11 samples used to support his 2005 Science paper.  What will happen with his World Stem Cell Club is still uncertain.  However, the Korean Government is likely to take action, perhaps recouping some of the $39 million it invested into Dr. Hwang’s research.  Dr. Hwang’s previous work, including the cloning of human embryo cells and of a dog, are still under investigation.
 
On a happier note, I was in our cafeteria today and saw workers preparing for the reopening of our cafeteria.  The previous cafeteria vendor shuttered operations in early March 2005.  On January 6, 2006, the cafeteria will reopen.  I am so excited!  It’s been a long time coming.  Also, the coffee vendor I mentioned a few weeks ago signed a one-year contract with our community association.  We briefly had a scare when the vendor’s corporate parent demanded they invest thousands of dollars into the empty space.  For a few days we thought we’d lost our new vendor.  The corporate parent relented, and the vendor signed the contract this week.  They will open their doors in late January.  Now, if only our community association could just fix the roof!  That project has been in work for almost a year.  It will cost a bundle to fix the roof, so we’re taking a "go slow" approach to fixing it.

The Yin and Yang of Dr. Hwang

I haven’t had much time to write lately with the lead-up to Christmas.  My Christmas cards haven’t been mailed yet, and I haven’t even sent out the Christmas e-cards yet.  I haven’t even purchased gifts for my wife and child.  I am so ashamed.  But I have been spend more time offline with my family, which I consider to be a good thing.  Forgive me, Dear Reader, for posting intermittently.  As always, it’s a shame that the commercialization of Christmas makes the holidays so much busier and less cheerful.
 
If you live in Korea, by now you’ve probably read about Dr. Hwang ad nauseum.  Dr. Hwang Woo-Suk is a doctor of veterinary science at Seoul National University and expert in stem cell research and cloning whose has been accused of improprieties and ethical lapses.  I featured Dr. Hwang in my August 4th blog entry, where I discussed Korea and its role in the future of cloning.  If you live outside Korea, you may also have heard about Dr. Hwang and the recent controversy about his research.  I won’t go into detail about what happened because it is such a touchy subject.  I am not an expert in cloning and don’t have enough information to have an opinion on his case.  I direct you to The Marmot’s Hole, which has many insights and links to various sources to learn more about Dr. Hwang’s predicament.
 
At the same time, I would be remiss if I failed to mention such an important and controversial topic in Korea today.  This is perhaps the "hottest" news story in Korea right now, or at least a close second to alleged North Korean counterfeiting and the Korean Government’s response.  I won’t postulate whether Dr. Hwang and members of his team are guilty or innocent of the accusations.  The findings of the investigation won’t be released for at least another month (Seoul National University will decide his fate).  Instead, I want to focus on an interesting dynamic in Korean society laid bare by this controversy; that is, the delicate interplay between the Korean media and the fundamental institutions of Korean society.  I define these instutions to be the primary political and economic entities in Korean society, include the government and industry.
 
The Korean media often clashes with these institutions.  The Korean media, recently voted the as having the greatest press freedom in Asia, is a very potent force in Korea (Korea scored even higher than the United States).  Much like yin and yang, there exists a delicate balance between the Korean media and institutions.  The media reports on the excesses of these institutions, such as when a politician is corrupt or misspeaks, and occasionally the institutions rein in the media, such as when the Korean Government blocks certain web sites.  The Korean public ultimately becomes the arbiter of these disputes, supporting either media contentions or government intervention when a major conflict exists between them.  In some cases, the media wins, and in others, the institutions win.  Yin and yang did not appear on the Korean flag by chance–they are still very much alive in Korean society and fighting for balance.
 
Dr. Hwang in many ways embodies one of the nascent, yet increasingly vital Korean institutions–Korea’s medical industry.  Dr. Hwang is extremely popular among Koreans for pioneering stem cell research and increasing the stature of Korea’s domestic medical industry.  He is such an icon that he even appeared on a Korean postage stamp.  Dr. Hwang and his team are now the central figures in a fascinating tragicomedy playing out between the Korean medical industry, particularly Seoul National University, and the Korean media.  What I find most interesting is that as this controversy has played out, the tension between institutions and the media has been particularly acute.  It will remain heated until balance has been reached.  Dr. Hwang is currently under investigation as a result of an MBC news report broadcast recently.  Consequently, MBC received the ire of many Korean protesters, and the show that sparked the controversy, "PD Notebook," has been cancelled despite 15 successful seasons on the air.  The Korean public, at least those I have surveyed, have tempered their admiration of Dr. Hwang with the realization that the investigation of Dr. Hwang must be conducted fairly and uncover the truth, even if it brings the downfall of Dr. Hwang.  It remains to be seen whether the Korean public decides in favor of the media or in favor of Dr. Hwang and the medical industry.