N Seoul Tower

Today my family and I drove up Namsan to visit a newly renovated Seoul Tower.  It’s my third trip to Seoul’s major landmark and my first since it reopened to the public.  The first two times, I climbed up from to the tower only to find it still under construction.  Not this time.  Today I knew it was open because the local media played up its grand reopening late last year with considerable fanfare.  The tower has officially been renamed the "N Seoul Tower," with the "N" standing for Namsan (in English, South Mountain).  I think it’s a bit silly, but apparently the refurbished tower had to have a new name.  If the name really needed to be changed, then I think the name "Namsan Tower" would have been a much better choice.
 
We drove up Namsan and parked not far from the tower.  We then walked the short, inclined distance to the tower’s base.  Along the way, we bought cotton candy for my son.  He ate it with a vengeance.  I also surveyed the lone remaining section of the old city wall.  Originally built in 1395, the section was mercifully spared by the Japanese, who dismantled Seoul’s walls during the Japanese Colonial Period (1910-45).  The wall runs along a public pathway that winds its way up to N Seoul Tower from the east.  The area on top of Namsan is fairly large and paved with flat cobblestones.  The area near the tower is covered with wood decking built during the tower’s renovation.  I thought it was very tastefully done.  The base of the tower has a fast casual restaurant and a spartan gift shop with very few trinkets.  Surrounding the tower are a few shops, including an ice cream and coffee shop, kitschy photo studio, convenience store, and a ticket shop.  I paid much too much for a tiny cup of espresso while waiting for my wife and son. 
 
Reading the N Seoul Tower coffee shop’s menu board reminded me just how much one company can influence the Korean language.  Although Starbucks Coffee borrowed many words from the Italian language, gourmet coffee terms in Korean such as "tall caffe mocha" very much follow Starbucks’ convention.  Virtually every gourmet coffee shop in Korea uses the same coffee terms as Starbucks does.  Even the Korean terms follow the Italian pronunciation very closely, right down to doubling up consonents such as "machiaTTo."  The attached photo shows some coffee selections and their Korean equivalents.  The Korean translation written in hangeul is virtually the same as it is in Starbucks’ Italian-English.  Koreans are crazy about gourmet coffee, and there are many competing chains.  None have had quite the same impact Starbucks has had.  It’s amazing that Starbucks has had such an impact in Korea that it introduced a new set of vocabulary into Korean.
 
We decided to forego visiting the tower observatory today because visibility was too poor.  When we were home the day did not seem so hazy, but the sunny blue skies were a bit deceptive.  The residual smog that blankets Seoul was very apparent when looking down from atop Namsan.  We decided to save time and money and view the city from the base of the tower instead.  The view from all four sides is rather nice.  The view of Seoul to the north looking towards downtown and Bukhansan National Park offers the best view.  The southern view along the Han River and Yeoido Island is also nice.  Today however, visibility was too poor to view Seoul in great detail in any direction.
 
Blog Note:  I couldn’t resist posting a photo of my son taken a couple weeks ago.  Proof positive that my son can walk on water.  And, he’s wearing mismatched blue and green socks, his favorite combination.
 
For the Shutterbugs:  I posted four new photos taken at the Seoul Millennium Hilton as well as photos of our visit to N Seoul Tower taken earlier today.  Enjoy!

In Memory of Nai Nai

My wife called me today with very sad news.  Her grandma, her dad’s mom, passed away today in Shanghai.  We are very saddened by the news.  Grandma, or “Nai Nai,” was 89 years old.  She lived a very long life, outliving many elderly Chinese.  She was born and lived most of her life in Hexian, a county in Anhui Province, China, about one hour west of Nanjing along the Yangzi River.  I can only imagine the changes she must have seen during her lifetime, from growing up as a peasant in rural China after World War I, through the Chinese Civil War, the Great Leap Forward and the Great Famine, the Cultural Revolution, and into the Deng Xiaoping era and China’s revival as a world power.  Her life makes me recall one of my favorite novels, “Wild Swans:  Three Daughters of China,” which chronicles three generations of women in one Chinese family during the 20th Century.

I met Nai Nai twice and have fond memories of her.  I wish I could remember her name.  Learning her name was a big challenge, because each time I asked, I met with strong opposition.  Unlike America, referring to your elders by name in China, even modified with a title, is considered inappropriate.  Hence, she was always known as “Nai Nai,” the Mandarin Chinese word for paternal grandmother (the maternal grandmother is called “wai po”).  I first met her was in 1994, when I visited Hexian with my wife’s family.  We went to my father-in-law’s hometown and visited the place where he spent his childhood.  Nai Nai was a smallish woman.  I remember her smile and the twinkle in her eye.  I did not know her well, but she always seemed like a sweet lady.  I’m sure it was a bit strange for her to meet a foreigner for the first time and at the same time welcome him as the newest member of the family.  The second time I saw her was in 2000, when we attended my sister-in-law’s wedding in Shanghai.  I remember that she seemed so happy to have family around her and have her children reunited.  She had taken care of my sister-in-law as a child, so Nai Nai was especially excited to attend her wedding.  My sister-in-law and she were very close.

Even though Nai Nai lived a full life, we are sad to hear of her passing.  She reminds me how precious life is and how important it is to be ready when the inevitable happens, both in life and in death.  One cannot know which day will be the last day of life, so live life to the fullest, as if each day were your last.  Never take for granted the lives of those you love, because you never know when they will be taken from you.  When my grandpa fell ill with cancer, we waited until it was convenient for us to visit him.  He passed away while we were en route to see him one last time.  I was devastated.  I regret that I let convenience get in the way of saying goodbye to my grandpa.  Two years later, when my aunt was diagnosed with incurable cancer, I dropped everything to see her a few months before she passed away.  A few years ago, I helped bring my mom and my grandma together again one last time.  I’ll never forget the touching moment when they reunited.  Three weeks later, my grandma passed away.  I did not see her again, but my final moments with her, watching her embrace my mother, is a memory etched in my mind.  I’m teary eyed even now thinking about it.

Distracted by Jumbotrons

Driving in Seoul is bad enough that drivers don’t need any further distractions.  Call it a clash between the highway and Korean digital superhighway.  Seven giant Jumbotron digital billboards are strategically placed around downtown Seoul in order to maximize viewership and inadvertantly distract drivers.  I usually don’t pay much attention to them while driving, but tonight I could not help it.  I was driving south towards Namdaemun in heavy traffic when I stopped and waited for the red light to turn.  As I waited, I couldn’t help but stare up at a monstrous digital advertisement featuring tennis sensation and stunningly beautiful Maria Sharapova.  The giant, digitized Wimbledon champion hits a few tennis balls that precisely hit a faraway target.  Then she suddenly hikes up her tennis skirt to reveal a portable media player strapped to her attractive, shapely leg.  I did not catch which product she was pitching–perhaps it was a Motorola product.  (When the beauty outshines the product being marketed, it’s overkill.)  No matter–the whole scene was rather distracting.  As the majority of drivers in Korea are men, I suspect that I was not the only male driver distracted by this huge, seductive advertisement overshadowing my line of sight.  When the traffic light turned green, I drove on and immediately thought about how easy it would be for this type of advertisement to cause traffic accidents.  While that speaks volumes about Maria Sharapova’s beauty, it doesn’t bode well for Seoul’s traffic safety.