Asia

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

Last Saturday we toured Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon.  The fortress is not really much of a fortress but rather functions as a walled city.  The fortress has neither a central palace, manor, armory, nor a stockade.  It encircles a large area about twenty square kilometers 5.7 x 4.6 kilometers), enclosing Suwon’s town center.  At the southern axis of the fortress rises Paldalmun, the southern gate, and to the north is its twin, Janganmun.  To the west, the fortress wall climbs Mount Paldal and overlooks the city, capped by Seojangdae, a beautiful pagoda.  Much of the fortress wall remains intact, although it has obviously been rebuilt and portions of the wall have given way to major street arterials.  31 major landmarks cling to various sections of the fortress wall.  The UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the more picturesque historical sites in Korea, and it is more impressive than its somewhat obscure reputation would suggest.
 
Hwaseong Fortress is not ancient.  Its construction dates back to the early years of the United States of America, when Joseon Dynasty King Jeongjo (1776-1800) built the fortress between 1794 and 1796 in honor of his father, Sado Seja.  King Jeongjo, a victim of court intrigue who was sentenced to death by his father under false pretenses, fled the royal court in Seoul.  He returned to the capital and assumed the throne upon the death of his father and built the fortress as an act of penance to appease his father’s soul.  While it is a shame that hundreds of Koreans labored to fulfill King Jeongjo’s gesture of filial piety, Korea gained an architectural masterpiece.  If you in Seoul and have an opportunity to visit the fortress, I highly recommend seeing it.  Good, historical day trips out of Seoul are limited, but the Hwaseong Fortress is one of them.
 
We parked not far from Paldalmun and ate lunch at a takgalbi restaurant.  Takgalbi is a spicy chicken, cabbage, and deok (sticky rice) dish fried on a grill and served with rice.  It is absolutely delicious–it is my favorite Korean dish.  My son doesn’t eat spicy food, so I went to Lotteria, a Korean fast food restaurant, and bought him a "bulgogi burger" kid’s meal.  He devoured it while my wife and I shared the takgalbi.  Afterwards, we climbed along the fortress wall up to the top of Mount Paldal.  The photos I posted a couple days ago show snapshots of our ascent.  We walked along the ramparts and surveyed several gates and monuments along the route.  We followed the fortress on foot for about a kilometer until we came upon a shuttle shaped like a dragon that whisked us along about four kilometers of the fortress, past Jangan to Dongjangdae, a pavilion to the northeast.  The way that the fortress wall wound around Suwon, up and down Mount Paldal in a broken, asymetrical circle reminded me of a diminuitive version of the Great Wall of China.

The Hallyu Effect

When I spoke to a Korean audience last week, the subject of "Hallyu", or the "Korean Wave," came up.  "Hallyu" is a buzzword that describes the spread of Korean media and culture worldwide, primarily through Korean films and television shows (especially dramas).  The person who introduced me noted that I had done a study on the economic impact of the Korean Wave and mentioned that audience members who had questions about it could ask me questions on the subject.  The irony in that offer is that he was inviting Koreans to ask me, a foreigner, about a Korean phenomenon that most Koreans already know well.  What they don’t know is just how significant an economic impact Hallyu has had on the Korean economy.
 
I did my study on the effects of Hallyu in 2004.  My study is a bit dated but still relevant.  In 2004, "Winter Sonata," a 20-episode drama series by Korean broadcasting company KBS, rocked the Asian world.  The drama made Korean stars Bae Yong Jun and Choi Ji Woo household names in Asia.  The euphoria over "Winter Sonata" has since subsided, but Korean Wave is still rolling.  Korean films and dramas tend to become popular overseas about a year after they are initially released in Korea.  During the past two years, three notable Korean dramas have been extremely popular here and have the potential to become Korea’s next runaway global hit–"Lovers in Paris," "Lovers in Prague," and "My Lovely Samsoon."  Like their American counterparts, Korean producers and directors are  keen to build lucrative franchises ala James Bond and the "Lord of the Rings."  For example, "Winter Sonata" is one of four dramas in the "Seasons" series.  The other three lesser-known dramas in the series are "Summer Scent," "Autumn Tales," and the upcoming "Spring Waltz."  Dramas with variations of the "Lovers" theme also form a quasi-franchise.  I sometimes remark that "Lovers" dramas, which are set in various amorous locations ranging from Harvard to Prague, is a bit like the U.S. show "Survivor," which moves around from destination to destination.  I’m still waiting for "Lovers in Guatamala."  Probably won’t happen.
 
Here is a summary of my 2004 report on the effects of "Hallyu" on the Korean economy.
  
What is "Hallyu," or the "Korean Wave"?
 
The term Hallyu, or "Korean Wave," was created by the Chinese media to describe a “new” Korean media phenomenon.   "Hallyu" is especially popular in East and Southeast Asia and in overseas Asian communities.  Countries that have embraced "Hallyu" include Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong, China, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore.  "Hallyu" is a buzzword for the rising worldwide interest in Korean culture, including:

  • Dramas (soap operas)

    • Movies

    • Popular music

  • Food and drink

    • Traditional culture

    • Tourism

  • Cosmetic surgery

"Hallyu" is not just a teen phenomenon.  In fact, in many places such as Japan, older women are its biggest fans.  It has been actively promoted by the Korean Government through organizations such as the Korean National Tourism Organization.  Korean actors such as Bae Yong Jun, Choi Ji Woo, and Won Bin, singers such as BoA and Bi, and artists and designers such as Andre Kim have helped promote "Hallyu" worldwide.

 

Hallyu Timeline
 
Worldwide interest in Korean media and culture grew after the Korean War (1950-53):

  • 1955:  Modern tae kwondo is born

  • 1980s:  Discourses on Korean culture by Yi Gyu-tae and others
  • 1988:  Korea showcased during Summer Olympics
  • 1997:  Hong Kong’s STAR-TV broadcasts Korean drama "Star in My Heart"
  • 2002:  World Cup promotes Korean culture globally
  • 2004:  KNTO launches “Korean Wave 2004” campaign and interest in the Korean Wave skyrockets after "Winter Sonata" is broadcast in Japan

Benefits of "Hallyu"

 

"Hallyu" significantly benefits Korea and its economy, including:

  • Increasing awareness of Korean culture worldwide

    • Promoting a positive image of Korean culture

  • Providing a new Japanese mania with a Korean (foreign) flavor

    • Depicting Korea as a post-modern center of Confucianism

    • Improving relations between Koreans and other nations, particularly between Korea and Japan

  • Promoting Korean tourism (2004 tourism increased by 47% over 2003)

    • Earning more currency from tourists who spend boatloads of money to relive their favorite "Hallyu" money 

  • Generating increased revenue and exports for Korean companies

The Economic Effect of "Hallyu"

 

In addition to the benefits listed above, "Hallyu" contributed nearly .35% to 2004 Korean gross domestic product (GDP).  "Winter Sonata" was by far the largest contributor.  Revenues from "Winter Sonata" were more than $2.25 billion in 2004, representing one-quarter of one percent (.25%) of Korea’s 2004 GDP.  In addition, the domestic Korean impact of the "Hallyu" was $866 million in 2004, or .10% of Korean GDP.  Contrast the success of "Winter Sonata" to that of the "Lord of the Rings" trilogy, which brought in $2.91 billion at the box office.  "Winter Sonata" grossed more than the #1 movie of all time, "Titanic," which brought in $1.84 billion.  The single biggest film of all time when measured as dollar purchasing parity, "Gone With the Wind," grossed nearly $200 million in 1939.  It signifcantly impacted the U.S. economy at a time when the country was emerging from the Great Depression and was not yet gearing up for World War II.  "Gone With the Wind" contributed .02% to U.S. GDP in 1939, much less than the .25% contributed by "Winter Sonata."  While .35% of GDP may not sound like much, it is amazing to think that a phenomenon that did not even have a name in 2003 contributed so much to Korea’s bottom line in 2004.

The notorious K.I.D.

A subtle social barrier exists in Korea than few recognize–the Korean identification number, or KID number.  Each Korean citizen has a unique seven-digit Korean national ID number akin to a Social Security number (SSN).  KID numbers are assigned to individuals based on age, gender, and place of birth.  Usage of the Korean ID is far more prevalent here than the Social Security number is in the United States.  While usage of the SSN has been on the decline in the U.S. because the private sector is moving away from using SSNs, the Korean ID number remains omnipresent in Korea.  It is difficult to integrate into Korean society without a KID.  When you open a Korean bank account, you need to furnish a KID.  When you subscribe to a Korean cell phone plan, you need to give the provider your Korean ID number.  If you want to join Cyworld, the hottest Web site in Korea, you need to give them your KID number.  (If you want to read more about Cyworld, read BusinessWeek’s article about the wildly popular Korean social networking website.  Cyworld is absolutely fascinating.  Unfortunately, you need to read Korean to be a member.)  
 
Last weekend my wife and son tried to visit the Children’s Museum at the National Museum of Korea.  My wife was told that she needed to buy tickets online.  When she tried to buy them, the web site asked for her KID.  This happens virtually anytime you visit a Korean website that requires membership.  If you’re an expatriate in Korea who does not have a KID, you are not only hamstrung if you don’t know the Korean language, but you’re also hindered by not having a KID.  It’s very frustrating.  The KID is a useful way to distinguish people with the same name, which is a frequent occurance in Korea.  The surnames Kim, Park, and Lee and related combinations comprise the vast majority of Korean surnames.  The KID is an easy way to distinguish Kim Seunghee 1234567 from Kim Seunghee 7654321.  Unfortunately, the KID can lead to discrimination, as those who do not qualify for KIDs–namely foreigners, must cope with living in Korea without a national ID number.  Of course, if you’re a privacy advocacy, perhaps not having a KID is a good thing.