Late nights and the art of gae

I met fellow MBA alumni tonight for dinner in Myeongdong, a trendy shopping district in downtown Seoul.  I did not see any other foreigners tonight.  Foreigners don’t typically spend much time in Myeongdong, which caters largely to Koreans.  Myeongdong starts rocking around 7 p.m. each night and slows down about 11 p.m. on weeknights and at 1 a.m. during the weekend.  I felt estranged not only because I was a foreigner but also because I am older than most of the people, err, youths, who wander around Myeongdong.
 
We dined tonight on budae jigae (solider’s stew), an interesting concoction dating back to when locals collected and cooked with leftover food available near U.S. military bases.  The need to scrounge for food has virtually disappeared in Korea, but the stew remains and is quite popular among Koreans today.  (Many traditions begin out of necessity.)  Soldier’s stew is made of ramen noodle, spam, hot dog, kimchi, tofu, macaroni, onion, and egg, as well as a hodge podge of other foodstuffs I can’t recall.  Although it may sound
unappetizing, the stew actually tastes pretty good.  In fact, one of the biggest restaurant chains in Korea, Nolboo, specializes in serving budae jigae.  We drank some soju, a rice alcohol, to wash away remnants of the stew.
 
I almost left to go home at about 9:45 p.m., but then my fellow alumni decided to go to a pub for some drinks.  I felt obliged to join them.  Tonight going out with friends and coworkers after work, a common practice in Korea, trumped my habit of going home after work.  I came home about 11 p.m., breaking up the party earlier than I think my fellow alumni would have.  I usually don’t make it a habit to stay out late at night, especially on a weeknight.  I made an exception though to join alumni I haven’t seen for at least two months..  My wife took care of my son tonight.  Tomorrow night it will be my turn to stay home while my wife joins some coworkers for a movie.
 
Two alumni paid for dinner and for drinks.  I thought it was a very nice gesture.  I offered to pay my portion, but they wouldn’t take my money.  Their kindness reminded me of a Korean custom mentioned at work today, "gae."  "Gae" are Korean quasi investment clubs.  A group of friends get together and deposit money into a joint bank account.  Members of the "gae" then take turns dipping into it when they need funds.  The "gae" have a rhyme and reason I don’t quite understand.  Some people benefit from "gae" more than others.  Group buying power is a plus, as is compound interest on a large sum of money.  However, I don’t really understand why anyone would join a group that jointly saves money so the members can spend it on themselves when needed.  Our alumni group created a joint account, and we all contribute 10,000 won (about $10) each month.  We plan to use the money for group activities and to donate to our university.  This, however, is not a "gae."  If each of us could dip into the account to pay for personal expenses, such as a  pleasure cruise, then it would be a "gae."  However, the money is earmarked for social events and donations.  I don’t think I would join a "gae" even if I could.

Hell on earth set to music

I finally purchased tickets to "Yoduk Story," the musical I mentioned on March 28 and February 26.  Five of us went to the final showing on Sunday afternoon.  "Yoduk Story," a musical about life in Yoduk Prison, a North Korean concentration camp, was so popular during its short run that it reopen for a few weeks in mid-April.  We were very fortunate to get tickets, because right after we secured tickets, we learned that the remaining performances were sold out. 
 
Yoduk Story was interesting to say the least.  Following are some of my observations about this newsworthy musical that has intrigued me for the past month.  I was happy to see that the show had a successful one-month run.  I enjoyed watching the director, Jeong Jang San, hand out awards at the end of the final performance.  I’m not sure that would have happened had it been a failure.
 
"Yoduk Story" was lighter than I expected.  I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but I imagined hell on earth set to music.  Perhaps my senses have been dulled by gratuitous violence on TV and film, but the musical was not as hellish as I expected.  Of course, some scenes left me feeling shocked and saddened.  The scene "Prison of Hell" during the first half of the show introducing Yoduk Prison was unforgettably disturbing, and the penultimate scene where virtually the entire ensemble ended up murdered in bloody gunfire is seared into my mind.  However, most scenes were more melancholy than murderous, entangled in the tragic hopelessness of both prisoners and guards.  Throughout the musical, the theme of North Korean repression transcends the sheer misery of Yoduk.  Director Jeong Jang San made it clear that most North Koreans–not just those unfortunate to be imprisoned in Yoduk–are victims of a brutal regime that represses them with omnipresent savagery.  The musical number "Better Be Careful" hit home with one powerful message–just one whisper in North Korea can mean the difference between a privileged life and certain death at Yoduk.
 
Some lighter scenes left one feeling that the story’s depiction of Yoduk Prison was more upbeat than life truly is behind Yoduk Prison’s electric fences and barbed wire.  For one, hard labor plays a tangential role.  In reality, I’m certain that Yoduk’s prisoners are far too busy working and too weary and malnourished to engage in the kind of sane dialogue portrayed in the musical.  I’m sure that not one prisoner at Yoduk dares sing out of fear of being overheard, abused, and murdered.  In addition, none of the actors in the musical appeared malnourished, inhuman, or disfigured, unlike those who actually reside in Yoduk Prison (thankfully).  The storyline was riddled with inconsistencies.  For example, in one scene, General Lee Myoung Soo, head of Yoduk Prison, tells prisoners that no grass grows in Yoduk because prisoners are not worthy of eating it.  However, in another scene, young prisoners sing songs while playing near a stream lined with beautiful flower bushes.  Despite these contradictions, the story conveys a powerful message of brutality and hope–absolutely shocking to a South Korean audience unaccustomed to unvarnished depictions of North Korea. 
 
I was also intrigued by the overtly Christian aspect of the story.  "The Lord’s Prayer" and "God, please don’t just go to South Korea" were key themes throughout the story.  None of the Korean or American media outlets commented on the fact that the director is a Christian who turned a story initially written in anger at North Korea for killing his father into a piece that celebrates faith in a place devoid of hope.  Jeong Jang San began writing "Yoduk Story" as a labor of love for his father, who was executed at Yoduk when his son defected from North Korea.  Later, he called the story cathartic and wrote that he had forgiven the country for murdering his father.  Throughout the musical, Christianity is depicted as the only hope prisoners have and the only hope that can save the North Korean people from its brutal regime.
 
I was happy that the show featured a teleprompter that translated the dialogue into English.  It was much easier to understand the plot with English subtitles.  I was surprised to see how many young children watched the show.  I went without my wife because I thought the visual imagery would be too shocking for her (she agreed).  I thought it was inappropriate for children under 18 years of age to watch "Yoduk Story."  It reminds that Koreans are more tolerant of exposing youths to influences that Americans consider offensive or inappropriate–the same feeling I had when I stumbled upon a plastination exhibit at Seoul Children’s Grand Park.  (Plastination is a process by which human cadavers are injected with plastic and carved into artistic sculptures.)  Moreover, at times during the show we were subjected to smoke from a smoke machine that bellowed smoke on stage.  The smoke effect was cool, but it was out of control.  Whenever the auditorium filled with smoke, I felt like I was in the middle of a dreaded Yellow Sand attack.  Perhaps the director wanted the audience to feel uncomfortable while they watched the show.  It worked.
 
"Yoduk Story" was a noble attempt to tell a story that is very difficult to tell.  Although it has been hailed as Korea’s version of "Les Miserables," this production does not have a heroic, hopeful ending.  It lacks the depth and sophistication of great musicals such as "Les Miz" and "Phantom of the Opera."  The director could have focused more on character development and human relationships.  Instead, he shapes his characters’ behaviors to convey the story’s message.  For example, when Gang Ryun Hwa, a famous North Korean actress who is sent to Yoduk after her father is arrested for spying, is raped by General Lee Myoung Soo, she becomes pregnant and gives birth to Lee’s child, Lee Yo Duk.  The production does not explain how Gang and Lee’s relationship progresses from that of rapist and victim to loving parents intent on caring for their illegitimate son.  The story features other, equally interesting characters, including a Japanese abductee, a South Korean fisherman caught in North Korean waters, a South Korean Christian who returned to North Korea to rejoin his family, a crazy woman who thinks she is Spanish, and conflicted prison guards who must grapple with obedience, loyalty, brutality, and their souls.  Their tragic stories play minor roles.  That’s a shame.  Director Jeong should have spent more time developing these characters and bringing their stories to life.  He could have done this without sacrificing a message of hope and imagery of hell on earth set to music.

“Yoduk Story” too popular?

I finally assembled a group of colleague to join me for "Yoduk Story," the theatrical production about life in North Korea’s Yoduk Concentration Camp.  The drama is apparently now so popular that tickets are virtually sold out.  This is great news for the director, Jung Sung-san, who apparently no longer needs to sell a kidney in order to repay loan sharks who helped him finance the production.  Unfortunately, we may not be able to see it now that it is popular with the Korean public.  Many international media outlets picked up the story publicized by the Chosun Ilbo (newspaper), and members of the Grand National Party (GNP), the main opposition party, have seen the show and are calling on ruling Uri Party members to see the show.  One month has passed since I first wrote about "Yoduk Story" and attempts to shut it down.  It’s now the hottest ticket in town–both politically and theatrically.  The show is scheduled to end next week.  I hope that it is extended awhile longer to accommodate demand and to give our group a chance to see it.