The king of Korea bloggers moves on

Korea Life Blog is the most popular blog maintained by an expat living in Korea.  I don’t read it often, but my wife is a big fan of Shawn’s blog and follows it along with my own Korea blog.  (Yes, she actually reads what I write in my blog.  Aside from the fact that sometimes I "sugarcoat things," as she puts it, she generally thinks it’s accurate and enjoys reading it.)  She likes the fact that Shawn personalizes his site and does a great job talking about everyday life in Korea as an English teacher.  She loves to follow his personal relationship with his girlfriend (sorry, I don’t have any tear jerker stories or salacious soap operas to share).  She thinks my site is more intellectual.  That’s probably true–I would just as soon talk about investing or pop culture as about Korea.  I have to hand it to Korea Life Blog–he does an excellent job describing expat life in Korea, at least from a teacher’s perspective.  A U.S. soldier or a Western businessman would have a different point of view, but Shawn does a good job describing Korean culture from a foreigner’s perspective.  He puts a lot more effort into his blog than I do.  For me, World Adventurers is an evening ritual I enjoy doing at the end of a long day.  I sit down at the computer, think about something that may or may not be related to Korea, and then type out my thoughts, do a little editing, and publish it hoping I haven’t made too many errors.  Occasionally I will add photos taken from our trips around Korea.  Shawn’s site obviously takes a lot more time and effort than mine.  In fact, the guy has published a couple of books about his life in Korea.  I think they’re a selection of his best blog entries.  Shawn’s experience in Korea is much more intimate than mine, partly because of the nature of our purpose for being here.  Shawn is an English teacher who interacts personally with Koreans all the time.  My experience with Koreans is much more impersonal, and lately I’ve been spending time with a lot of Americans in need here in Korea.  Getting to know Koreans personally remains one of my biggest challenges.  My own observation about English teachers in Korea is that although their best friends are generally expatriates, they also have many Korean friends and acquaintances.  Also, I’m a family man who usually returns home after a long day at work.  I have far fewer opportunities to go out and experience Korea like Shawn does.  My night life usually consists of playing with my son and working on an ongoing home project.

Now the author of Korea Life Blog has moved on.  He recently went to Beijing, China and will probably stay there for awhile.  I wonder whether he will return to Korea.  He seems to be enjoying himself immensely in China.  As someone who knows China well, I can understand why he’s so infatuated with China.  Problems such as pollution and Big Brother notwithstanding, China is an awesome place.  In a way, I feel a bit like his alter ego.  Shawn knows Korea like I wish I knew Korea, and I think he wants to know China like I know China.  My lifestyle is also far different than his.  I wonder what life would be like if we traded places for a week.  I wonder whether he would even do it if he could.  If he does stay in China, I wonder whether he will change the name of his blog or start a new one focused on China.  That’s why I chose a generic name like "World Adventurers."  Korea today, China tomorrow.  Only one thing is sure–a year and a half from now, this blog will focus on someplace new.  No matter what, this blog will probably never generate 377,000 hits like Shawn’s blog has since September 2004.  That’s quite an accomplishment.

Sticker shock for expats

A survey released yesterday by Mercer Human Resources Consulting ranks Seoul as the fifth most expensive city in the world for expatriate living.  Seoul is up two spots from last year, and it now ranks fifth behind Tokyo, Osaka, London, and Moscow.  Asuncion, Paraguay remains the cheapest city in the world for expats.  Each year, Mercer publishes this ranking in order to give companies an indication of how much to pay their expatriate employees.  While most local residents manage to live in Seoul on a limited budget, expatriates who want to maintain a comfortable lifestyle in Seoul have to adjust to sticker shock.  It may not be as expensive as Tokyo or London, but then again, one would not expect Seoul to be more expensive than New York City or Paris.

It is still a bit of a mystery to me how Koreans can afford to live in Seoul.  When the average Korean earns about $12,500 (U.S.) annually, one wonders how Koreans can afford to live in Seoul at all (one in every four Korean lives in Greater Seoul).  Granted, Koreans can buy cheaper goods at local markets, rather than shopping at upscale department stores.  Plus, they often live at home with their parents until they can afford to rent their own place, and when they do rent or buy, they typically buy in areas far from downtown such as in Incheon City.  Although the cost of living in Korea is much cheaper for Americans who are stationed at local U.S. military bases because the military subsidizes goods purchased on base, prices on the local economy are significantly higher.  For example, prices at the three Costco warehouses in Seoul are far higher than in the U.S.  I think I would find it hard to make ends meet if I lived in Seoul making $12,500 a year.

The fact that 1 U.S. dollar equals approximately 1,000 won also hides the true cost of an item.  For example, when one pays 16,000 won for a lunch with one 10,000 won bill, a 5,000 won bill, and a 1,000 won bill, one does not automatically calculate the true cost of the meal they just purchased.  In the U.S., I commonly made my own lunch or paid a few dollars for lunch at a cafeteria.  Now, I routinely spend $6-$16 per day having lunch with colleagues.  Food and housing costs seem to make up the highest percentage of a typical Korean’s budget.  Apartments can cost well over $1,000,000 (U.S.) in some areas of town, especially in Jongno-gu (central district), Yongsan-gu (just south of downtown), and Gangnam-gu (the area south of the river).  Dining and entertainment is usually a large portion of one’s budget, because meeting with friends and coworkers for food and drink is a very common activity in Seoul. 

Dinner and a subway ride

I went out solo tonight for a rare night alone.  I met up with a fellow UW MBA alumnus tonight near Gangnam Station for dinner at Platinum Micro Brewery, a local brew pub.  It’s been awhile since we’ve seen each other.  I chose the place based on an online recommendation.  I wanted to find a place that brews its own beer, and Platinum turned out to be a winner.  I’m not too fond of Korea’s three major macro brews, OB, Hite, and Cass, but Platinum’s beer is outstanding.  The brew pub offers an all-you-can-eat buffet and all-you-can-drink beer from 6 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. each weeknight (yes, the beer tap shuts off at 8:30 p.m.  No sneaking extra pints).  The Western-style cuisine was delicious, and the beer was great.  I tried a cream stout and a sweet Belgian-style weiss bier.  Platinum does as good a job crafting beers as any brew pub microbrew I’ve tasted.  The place seems to be very popular with the college-age crowd.  Two others were supposed to join us tonight, but they had other commitments.  Still, my friend and I had a good time catching up.  The area near Gangnam Station was filled with activity, despite the fact that I visited it on a Tuesday night.  People there dressed up in suits and beautiful dresses, indicating that it is a slightly upscale part of town, albeit not as trendy as Myeongdong.

I went from work to Gangnam Station by subway.  I noticed a couple of oddities in the Seoul subway.  For one, peddlers love to hock their wares on subway trains.  Tonight a gentleman stopped next to me in the middle of the train car and began crying out about how good his product was to the passengers.  I think it was an exercise accessory, but I’m not sure.  In the past on the subway I’ve seen vendors sell key chain flashlights.  Based on the vendor’s claim, his product is the best on the market and could be purchased for a limited time on the subway for only 5,000 won (about $5).  I also noticed that many subway passengers play video games on their cell phones.  Korea is on the cutting edge of cellular technology, although I have yet to see it for myself (I have an old, cheap cell phone).  The screens are small, but on the subway simple strategy games seem to be a great way to break the monotony of the ride.  As usual, I did not see a single foreigner riding the subway.  It seems that foreigners living in Seoul may be too dependent on other means of transportation.