Christmas scenes in Seoul

Tonight my family and I ventured out in the cold to see the Christmas scenes in Seoul.  The central district of Seoul, Jongno-gu, forms a large triangle.  To the south lies Seoul City Hall.  To the northeast sits Insadong Market, and to the northwest, Gyeongbok Palace forms the apex of the triangle.  Cheonggyecheon Stream, recently unearthed and developed into a city park, bisects this triangle.  The area between Cheonggyecheon Stream to the north and Seoul City Hall to the south is the Myeongdong Shopping District.  This small section of Seoul is brilliantly lit with thousands of Christmas lights and sprinkled with Christmas scenes.  It’s quite a beautiful site to behold.  I posted some of the best photos, Dear Reader, to give you a glimpse of the gorgeous Christmas scenes you can see in downtown Seoul.
 
The morning dawned with a dusting of snow.  The temperature today was cold but not frigid.  By nightfall however, the temperature dropped considerably and the wind picked up.  It was extremely cold outside!  Korea is not as cold as Siberia, but it was still bone chilling.  We braved the cold and started our evening in Namdaemun Market, where we shopped for Christmas toys.  The market was festive with myriad colorful lights strung above our heads and small shops converted into makeshift Christmas stores.  Don’t let the photos fool you, though.  It was far cold than the evening appears in the photos I posted.  It must have been miserable for the Namdaemun Market vendors who stayed out in the cold, trying to earn a few thousand extra won from cold passersby.
 
Following our trip to the market, we took a taxi to Cheonggyecheon Stream and walked along the stream for a couple of blocks, snapping photos amidst a crowd of amateur photographers.  After that, we took our son to a coffee shop and stayed there for awhile, drinking hot cocoa and sharing a pastry.  We ended our journey at Seoul City Hall, taking a few final photos of the large Christmas tree and snowflake castle displays beside the City Hall ice rink.  Although we were freezing, the Christmas scenes in downtown Seoul made the trip worthwhile.  Our son was a trooper for braving the cold with us.  He thoroughly enjoyed the trip.  Every so often, we asked him, "Are you cold?" to which he answered, "Nope.  It’s cold outside." 
 
Blog Notes:  Well, the uncertainty about Dr. Hwang’s fate lasted just one day after I mentioned his case.  Dr. Hwang Woo-Suk resigned today from his professorship at Seoul National University after the school found that his team faked nine of 11 samples used to support his 2005 Science paper.  What will happen with his World Stem Cell Club is still uncertain.  However, the Korean Government is likely to take action, perhaps recouping some of the $39 million it invested into Dr. Hwang’s research.  Dr. Hwang’s previous work, including the cloning of human embryo cells and of a dog, are still under investigation.
 
On a happier note, I was in our cafeteria today and saw workers preparing for the reopening of our cafeteria.  The previous cafeteria vendor shuttered operations in early March 2005.  On January 6, 2006, the cafeteria will reopen.  I am so excited!  It’s been a long time coming.  Also, the coffee vendor I mentioned a few weeks ago signed a one-year contract with our community association.  We briefly had a scare when the vendor’s corporate parent demanded they invest thousands of dollars into the empty space.  For a few days we thought we’d lost our new vendor.  The corporate parent relented, and the vendor signed the contract this week.  They will open their doors in late January.  Now, if only our community association could just fix the roof!  That project has been in work for almost a year.  It will cost a bundle to fix the roof, so we’re taking a "go slow" approach to fixing it.

The Yin and Yang of Dr. Hwang

I haven’t had much time to write lately with the lead-up to Christmas.  My Christmas cards haven’t been mailed yet, and I haven’t even sent out the Christmas e-cards yet.  I haven’t even purchased gifts for my wife and child.  I am so ashamed.  But I have been spend more time offline with my family, which I consider to be a good thing.  Forgive me, Dear Reader, for posting intermittently.  As always, it’s a shame that the commercialization of Christmas makes the holidays so much busier and less cheerful.
 
If you live in Korea, by now you’ve probably read about Dr. Hwang ad nauseum.  Dr. Hwang Woo-Suk is a doctor of veterinary science at Seoul National University and expert in stem cell research and cloning whose has been accused of improprieties and ethical lapses.  I featured Dr. Hwang in my August 4th blog entry, where I discussed Korea and its role in the future of cloning.  If you live outside Korea, you may also have heard about Dr. Hwang and the recent controversy about his research.  I won’t go into detail about what happened because it is such a touchy subject.  I am not an expert in cloning and don’t have enough information to have an opinion on his case.  I direct you to The Marmot’s Hole, which has many insights and links to various sources to learn more about Dr. Hwang’s predicament.
 
At the same time, I would be remiss if I failed to mention such an important and controversial topic in Korea today.  This is perhaps the "hottest" news story in Korea right now, or at least a close second to alleged North Korean counterfeiting and the Korean Government’s response.  I won’t postulate whether Dr. Hwang and members of his team are guilty or innocent of the accusations.  The findings of the investigation won’t be released for at least another month (Seoul National University will decide his fate).  Instead, I want to focus on an interesting dynamic in Korean society laid bare by this controversy; that is, the delicate interplay between the Korean media and the fundamental institutions of Korean society.  I define these instutions to be the primary political and economic entities in Korean society, include the government and industry.
 
The Korean media often clashes with these institutions.  The Korean media, recently voted the as having the greatest press freedom in Asia, is a very potent force in Korea (Korea scored even higher than the United States).  Much like yin and yang, there exists a delicate balance between the Korean media and institutions.  The media reports on the excesses of these institutions, such as when a politician is corrupt or misspeaks, and occasionally the institutions rein in the media, such as when the Korean Government blocks certain web sites.  The Korean public ultimately becomes the arbiter of these disputes, supporting either media contentions or government intervention when a major conflict exists between them.  In some cases, the media wins, and in others, the institutions win.  Yin and yang did not appear on the Korean flag by chance–they are still very much alive in Korean society and fighting for balance.
 
Dr. Hwang in many ways embodies one of the nascent, yet increasingly vital Korean institutions–Korea’s medical industry.  Dr. Hwang is extremely popular among Koreans for pioneering stem cell research and increasing the stature of Korea’s domestic medical industry.  He is such an icon that he even appeared on a Korean postage stamp.  Dr. Hwang and his team are now the central figures in a fascinating tragicomedy playing out between the Korean medical industry, particularly Seoul National University, and the Korean media.  What I find most interesting is that as this controversy has played out, the tension between institutions and the media has been particularly acute.  It will remain heated until balance has been reached.  Dr. Hwang is currently under investigation as a result of an MBC news report broadcast recently.  Consequently, MBC received the ire of many Korean protesters, and the show that sparked the controversy, "PD Notebook," has been cancelled despite 15 successful seasons on the air.  The Korean public, at least those I have surveyed, have tempered their admiration of Dr. Hwang with the realization that the investigation of Dr. Hwang must be conducted fairly and uncover the truth, even if it brings the downfall of Dr. Hwang.  It remains to be seen whether the Korean public decides in favor of the media or in favor of Dr. Hwang and the medical industry.

Branding and the legend of Santa

Tonight we went to my wife’s Christmas party at Outback Steakhouse in Seoul.  It’s the first time I’ve been to Outback since my wife and I went to the one close to our home in the Seattle area a few years ago for our anniversary.  This is inconsequential until you consider that Korea has scores of Outback Steakhouses, and they’re extremely popular here.  It seems easier to find an Outback here than a McDonald’s.  Why?  Because Koreans love steak and lobster.  The Outback menu is tailored made for the Korean palatte, epitomizing what many Koreans consider to be the best of western cuisine.  Despite being headquartered in Tampa, Florida, the company also plays up its Australian image and reinforces the interestingly relationship Australians have with the two Koreas.  I find it ironic that Outback Steakhouse is an American restaurant chain that serves Australian beef in Korea (U.S. beef is currently banned in Korea but may be available again soon).
 
Outback Steakhouse reminded me of an interesting phenomenon in Korea–the immense popularity of certain western brands.  While their competitors may also sell product in Korea, certain western brands have established a very strong presence in Korea and have significant local brand recognition.  For example, Black Angus recently opened in Korea, but it faces an uphill battle against its primary competitor, Outback.  TGI Friday’s restaurants are also prevalent.  Dunkin’ Donuts, Baskin Robbins (along with Dunkin Donuts, a division of Allied Domecq), Starbucks, and 7-11 have also established a strong presence in Korea.  Interestingly, Burger King is also very popular in Korea, perhaps as popular as McDonald’s.  It seems that brand building in Korea is as important as the product itself.  Take donuts, for example.  Many Americans would agree that Krispy Kreme sells a better tasting donut than does Dunkin’ Donut.  Koreans tend to prefer moderately sweetened pastries.  However, they make an exception when it comes to eating Dunkin’ Donuts’ donuts.  Krispy Kreme may have the better donut, but it will hard pressed to overtake Dunkin’ Donuts in the Korean market.  Dunkin’ Donuts sells a known product already popular with Koreans, and they will not switch to Krispy Kreme lightly.  Starbucks and The Coffee Bean have experienced similar success in Korea.  Seattle’s Best Coffee, Caribou Coffee, and any number of U.S. coffee houses with aspirations for the Korean market will have a difficult time stealing market share away from Starbucks or The Coffee Bean.
 
Note to AngelineTay:  Why did I dress as Santa Claus?  Well, for one, we had a Santa suit available at work, and I thought it would be fun for the kids if I dressed up as Santa.  Secondly, even though it was a Christmas Party, it isn’t truly a Christmas celebration.  It was a company party with Christmas trappings.  We’re saving our Christmas celebration for Sunday, December 25.  (We did pray before the meal, though.)  Thirdly, in all honesty, and by no means meant to be tongue-in-cheek, I would make a terrible Baby Jesus.  I’m much closer in appearance to Santa than I am to Baby Jesus.  Maybe I could have been a Wise Man, but then I’d either have had to find two other Wise Men or be all three at once (in 2001, I bought my wife gold, frankincense, and myrrh for Christmas during our trip to Egypt).
 
I am all too aware of how commercialized Christmas has become, centered around Santa Claus and gift giving.  Once upon a time, the legend of Santa Claus grew out of the story of St. Nicholas, a monk who lived during the Third Century A.D. in modern-day Turkey, whose benevolence was a manifest of his Christian faith (the name Santa Claus is derived from Sinter Klaas, the Dutch name for St. Nicholas).  Few people remember that December 6, the day of his death, is the day when St. Nicholas is traditionally honored.  Perhaps it would be better if Santa Claus and all the commercialization that goes with him moved to December 6 instead of December 25. 
 
I wonder sometimes too whether Christ’s birth should be celebrated in the spring (circa April), when Jesus was more likely to have been born given the approximate date of the Roman Census that brought Mary and Joseph travel to Bethlehem when Mary was full term.