Kilimanjaro, Day Seven (continued)

Evening, January 1, 2011

Our leader August woke me up from a deep sleep in my tent at Kibo Hut.  It was late afternoon.  Nary three hours’ rest and we were on the move again!  My body begged for relief, but August insisted that we make it to Horombo Huts before nightfall.  I struggled to stretch my joints that seemed to be frozen in place despite the warm temperature.  My hands forced my aching feet into a pair of tennis shoes.  After over 15 hours in heavy weight hiking boots, they needed to wear something more comfortable, rough terrain be damned.  The cook asked voicelessly whether I wanted something to eat, but I waved him off.  Who needs food when you’re sleep deprived?

August accompanied me on this leg of the journey.  Kay and Tom, who were more rested than I, had gone on ahead earlier with their guides.  Horombo Huts on the Marangu (Coca-Cola) Route was at least three hours more down the trail, and at this late hour I was concerned whether we would make it to camp before dark.  I was relieved that the trail ahead was more gradual than what we had faced on Kibo Peak and would be easier to hike – or so I thought.  It stretched for miles past snow-capped Mount Mawenzi, a sight that left me both comforted and dismayed.  It gave me a renewed sense of purpose, yet it looked like a very long way to hike.  Horombo Huts was about nine kilometers down trail somewhere behind the mountain.  Great, I thought, still long way to go.

I left behind all my belongings save some light outdoor clothing and backpack.  I refused August’s offer to carry it.  We set off together, leaving behind the porters to tear down camp and follow us.  As I left Kibo Hut, I looked up at Mount Mawenzi and noticed the outline of what appeared to be two Buddhas on the mountain face sitting cross-legged with the palms of their hands pressed together prayerfully.  What an amazing view, I thought.  I wondered whether anyone else had seen these Buddhas or if I was merely delirious with altitude sickness.

At first walking was torturous as we picked our way down a rocky trail that looked as if it had been made by hikers too lazy to follow the Marangu Route.  I had better motor control in my tennis shoes and was able to keep my balance and avoid sliding, although I still used hiking poles as a precaution.  We joined the Marangu trail and headed southwest toward the park entrance 30 kilometers downhill.  August had insisted that we press on in order to shorten our hike on the last day.

As we hiked on the flattest terrain I’d seen the entire trip, August and I discussed the climb at length, going over what went right and what could have gone better.  He seemed genuinely interested in my suggestions for improvement.  I complimented him for his perseverance and thanked him profusely for helping me scale Gilman’s Point.  I gave him a plethora of helpful tips ranging from revising the route to eliminate the acclimatization hike to School Hut and differentiating his customers depending on age and physique.  I suggested other services he could add to his repertoire, including a massage service one of my companions had proffered a few days earlier.  I told him that although I personally appreciated his assistance, other members of our group have told me that they could have had a better experience and pointed out that even though he went beyond the call of duty to guide Betty, the route he chose may have been her undoing.

We walked and hiked for a couple of hours, eventually lapsing into silence as we ran out of things to say.  Along the way I took a few photos and marveled at Kilimanjaro rising up behind us like a lepress, the elegant beauty of Mawenzi, and the desolation of the mountain plateau.  I studied the landscape and noticed that the volcanic rocks littering the ground were twisted into odd shapes.  Some looked like distorted likenesses of distraught climbers whose faces were tortured by the horror of failing to make it to the summit.  Plant and animal life was sparse on the plain, yet I passed piles of dull-colored elephant dung along the way.  Curious, I asked August about it, and he responded that elephants once roamed the plain until a few years ago when the Tanzanian authorities fenced in the park to keep them out.  While I was disappointed the pachyderms had been deprived of their natural habitat, I couldn’t imagine running into one after coming off the mountain!

At dusk we entered a hilly area with more vegetarian and an uneven trail.  The sun had begun to set, casting shadows over the land.  I asked August how far we had to go and each time was met by a simple response of “not far.”  At first I was satisfied with his answer, but as soon as the sun dipped low on the horizon and the light faded I began to worry.  How far did we have to go?  Would we need to hike in the dark?  It dawned on me that I had made a mistake wearing my tennis shoes because the trail was now rocky, uneven and heading downhill at a disconcertingly steep angle.  August turned on his flashlight, but the beam wasn’t strong enough to offset the encroaching darkness.  I began stumbling over rocks and twisting my ankle, sending waves of pain up my feet to my knees.  Although I knew that our slow pace was on account of my weak condition, I scolded August for letting us to hike so late in the day.  The darkness and uneven path were a treacherous combination, and several times I almost tripped and fell.  August took pity on me and propped me up arm in arm.  It wasn’t enough.  As we tumbled down the dark path I did my best to follow along and let August catch me whenever I wobbled.  A guide met us on the trial three hours into our journey and half an hour after nightfall and grabbed my other arm.  The guide radioed ahead, and Minja met us minutes later.  I eventually abandoned trying to follow and let them push, pull, and haul me to camp.  The pain of being dragged over the rocks with my legs flopping around was excruciating.

We arrived at camp at 8:30 p.m.  It took three guides almost an hour to drag my exhausted shell of a body to Horombo Huts!  My 18-hour hiking ordeal had finally come to an end — but not without consequence.  For the first time I worried that I had injured my knees or legs.  I used my arms to pull myself into my tent; my legs were worthless.  Kay, who had been waiting for me at the camp for quite some time, gave me a hug and congratulated me for making it down in the dark.  I answered her with a faint smile and a sigh.  As an award she gave me a can of beer aptly named “Kilomanjaro,” but I couldn’t drink or eat a thing.  Once again I passed up dinner.  Instead, I simply crashed and drifted off to sleep.

James Bond In Zambia

Someone told me today that living in Zambia is a Bond…James Bond kind of lifestyle.  Hmm.  I’d never thought of it that way before.  Whether it’s driving your household help back to their compound at night or avoiding sinkholes that suddenly appear across a major road in town at the end of the rainy season, I have to conclude that living in southern Africa does have its share of excitement.  There’s never a dull moment, that’s for sure.  Unless of course you miss watching the symphony or a baseball game, eating pizza and playing video games at Chucky E. Cheese, or making a pilgrimage to Disneyland or Sea World.  No, there’s no excitement of that kind here.  The action and adventure here are more akin to what you might find on “The Gods Must Be Crazy” (vice “Goldfinger”).

What if Ian Fleming’s James Bond came to Zambia?  Let’s say he was on a mission to catch some networked bad guys in his 38th film and comes to Zambia for a couple of scenes like he did when he went to Bolivia and busted a conspiracy to drain the country – that aquatic paradise – of its water resources.  What heroics would he do here in Zambia?  Well, he might be accused of meddling in local affairs and have to fight his way out of the country.  Or maybe he would uncover and thwart a nefarious plot by some wealthy businessperson to corner the maize market and jack up the price of mealie meal, thereby causing the country to panic because of diminishing quantities of increasingly expensive nshima.  Maybe he would try sneaking up on the bad guy’s lodge on the Zambezi River and find himself in a life and death struggle with a hungry crocodile or a grumpy pod of hippos.  Perhaps Bond would try to cross into Zimbabwe through the bush and find himself face to face with a rampaging elephant that’s mad because he’s cutting through its territory.

I can certainly see 007 passing through Zambia on his way to cinematic greatness.  Either that, or he’d never come here, which would make this a most excellent place for a villain to hide.

More About Zambia

Top Ten Things to See in ZambiaZambian CrittersZambian Trees in Bloom
Iguazu Falls vs. Victoria FallsLake KaribaJames Bond in Zambia
Boomslang BarryElvis in AfricaFlat Stanley’s Adventure on the Zambezi River
When I Saw a LionOther Articles

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Top Ten Things to See in Zambia

Click here for an updated version of this post with photos and more details about the Top Ten Things to See in Zambia.

I’ve done this list for Korea.  Almost two years into our tour in Zambia I finally found the inspiration to put together a “top ten” list of things to see in Zambia.  These are by no means a scientifically random sample or a results of a public opinion poll; they are my own choices based on my own biased preferences I think will give you a good taste of Zambia.  Many of them I have visited or done myself; some I included based on their reputation as a tourist destination.  Here they are:

  1. Victoria Falls (Zambia/Zimbabwe):  I’ve been to arguably the world’s largest waterfalls several times, and they never cease to amaze me.   These are by far Zambia’s biggest drawing card.  Many tourists will take a detour from South Africa to do an overnight trip to the Falls and in nearby Livingstone, Zambia or the town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.  The falls are spectacular from both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides; more of the upper falls is in Zambia and the lower portion with better views in Zim.  There are several good hotels; the high-end (and expensive) Victoria Falls Hotel on the Zim side and Royal Livingstone Hotel or Zambezi Sun on the Zambia side are your best bets.  The best time to see the falls is between July and September.  In February-March the falls are a wall of mist, and they’re nearly dry in November and December.  I especially enjoyed visiting in November when the falls were at their lowest.  That’s when the catch basin looks like the Grand Canyon.  Swimming in the famous Devil’s Pool next to Livingstone Island beside a 105 meter drop is an experience of a lifetime you can only do in November.  If you’re an adventurous sort, there’s also bungy jumping or zip lining from the Victoria Falls Bridge and whitewater rafting in some unruly rapids.
  2. South Luangwa National Park:  This is one of several national parks in Zambia and by far the most famous.  It features the most wildlife of any game park in the country.  It’s either a short flight or a 10-hour drive from Lusaka; flying is more convenient but expensive.  The game drives are fabulous.  For high-end lodging, stay at the Chichele Lodge, the presidential retreat of former president Kenneth Kaunda (1964-91), or at award-winning Mfuwe Lodge inside the park.  There are numerous less expensive lodges and bush camps in the area.
  3. Lower Zambezi River:  The lower Zambezi River basin is a short drive south of Lusaka and a great place for a long weekend getaway.  There are several lodges in the Chirindu and Chiawa areas near the confluence of the Zambezi and Kafue Rivers.  Great for bush camp excursions, safaris, hunting, fishing and boat cruises.
  4. Lake Tanganika/Kasaba Bay:  Kasaba Bay on Lake Tanganika in Northern Province is currently under development as a major tourist destination.  Once completed in the next decade, it will feature several resorts on the shores of one of Africa’s major Rift lakes.  For now you have to drive through Mporokoso or fly into Kasama and do a car hire, but once completed you’ll be able to fly there directly from Lusaka.  Northern Province is one of Zambia’s most beautiful provinces with several large waterfalls overshadowed by Victoria Falls.
  5. Kuomboka Traditional Ceremony:   Each year the Lozi tribe holds its annual Kuomboka ceremony marking the end of the rainy season.  The date varies with the end of the season (this year it’s scheduled for April 16).  Held in Limilunga, Western Province, at the Barotse king’s palace, it is arguably the country’s most famous traditional ceremony and a great example of traditional culture in Zambia.  The gift shop at the Barotse Royal Museum has some great local crafts for sale.  With recent unrest in Western Province, ask ahead if you’re thinking about attending this year’s ceremony.
  6. Liuwa Plains Wildebeest Migration:  One of the world’s largest animal migrations passes each November through remote Liuwa Plains National Park in Western Province.  Thousands of migrating wildebeest and head back toward Namibia.  A word of caution – the park is remote, and the roads are very sandy and difficult to navigate even with a 4×4.  It’s advisable to visit with an organized tour operator or in a caravan.
  7. Saturday Dutch Market:  Every last Saturday of the month, Zambia’s largest open-air food and crafts market sets up shop at the Dutch Reformed Church in the Kabulonga area of Lusaka.  Artisans from Zambia and neighboring countries bring their crafts to you.  It’s one of the few places where you can find Zimbabwean soap stone sold beside Zambian copper plates.  If you miss this market, try the smaller Sunday market at the Arcades Shopping Centre in Lusaka that happens weekly.  Be sure to bargain – I found that vendors will reduce prices as low as 40 percent of their original quote.
  8. Kasanka Bat Migration:  Each October the world’s largest migration of giant fruit bats occurs at Kasanka National Park in Northern Province.  You’ll go batty with excitement or fear from the approximately eight million bats that swarm harmlessly above you.
  9. Visit a compound:  Most urban Zambians live in poor neighborhoods known as “compounds.”  Ask a local you trust to take you during the day to one of the safer compounds in Lusaka to buy a carton of Shake-Shake chibuku (fermented corn meal) at the local pub.  Two of the largest and safer compounds in Lusaka are the Bauleni Compound on Leopard’s Hill Road and Kalingalinga Compound off Alick Nkhata Road.  Walk around and savor the fascinating flavor of local Zambian life.
  10. Lake Kariba:  Spend a weekend on the world’s largest artificial lake.  Stay in the town of Siavonga for a nice relaxing getaway.  Take a boat cruise and visit the Lake Kariba dam; dine on local crayfish.  I posted an article about our recent trip to Lake Kariba in February.

Zambia Map