mgedwards – Page 56

The Routes of Kilimanjaro

The various trekking routes on Mount Kilimanjaro are featured in my book Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to Go Over the Hill, which chronicles my attempt to summit Africa’s highest mountain. The book is on sale now as an e-book for $3.99 and in paperback for $9.99 at Amazon and other booksellers. Kilimanjaro is featured this month as a new release by the World Literary Café.

The routes on Mount Kilimanjaro are as varied as its terrain and vegetation. All ways to the top are difficult, but none are alike. None guarantee you will reach the summit and make it back safely. Some routes, such as the Marangu and Rongai, are considered “easier” than the others because they offer a better chance of success to most climbers. The slopes they ascend are more gradual and longer, and hence give climbers more time to adjust to the high altitude. Steeper climbs, such as those on the Machame and Umbwe routes, are often preferred by more seasoned trekkers. For those seeking a more roundabout way to the summit with great views or a wide range of biodiversity, the Shira Plateau-Lemosho and the Northern Circuit routes could be options. The route you choose depends on you.

Map from “Kilimanjaro – A Trekking Guide to Africa’s Highest Mountain” by Henry Stedman. Trailblazer Publications; 3rd edition. Courtesy of Henry Stedman.

The following are general descriptions of the major routes on Mount Kilimanjaro.

Lemosho Route: A longer, lesser-used route that passes through the Shira Plateau, it merges with the Machame Route. Climbers usually reach the summit either via the Western Breach or Machame Route. Lemosho is a walking safari with possible animal sightings, and guides carry firearms in the event that climbers stumble upon predators.

Marangu Route: Also known as the “Coca-Cola” Route, this is the most popular way to the summit and typically takes six days. Its camps have better facilities than those on other routes. The trail starts at the Marangu Gate and passes through Kibo Huts to the summit. Some claim that it is the easiest route and has a higher success rate because it allows climbers more time to acclimatize and a more gradual ascent.

Machame Route: Also known as the “Whiskey” Route, the Machame is the shortest and steepest route to the summit. It begins on the south side of Kilimanjaro and reaches the summit by scrambling from Barafu Huts up the slope of Kibo Peak. The hard and fast ascent generally decreases climbers’ odds of reaching the summit, although it may be suitable for experienced climbers who adjust quicker to higher altitudes.

Mweka Route: A short, steep route used only for descent. Climbers on the Machame Route often use it to descend the mountain. The trail begins at Barafu Huts and heads south.

Northern Circuit: A lesser-used route that circles the north side of Kibo Peak. Climbers using this route must use another one to reach the summit. The trail follows the alpine desert band around the peak and offers amazing views of the lowlands below.

Rongai Route: Also called the Nalemuru, Nalemoru, Loitokitok, or Simba Route, this is a moderately steep route starting on the north side of Kilimanjaro close to the Kenyan border. I dubbed the Rongai the “Kilimanjaro Beer” Route because it lies somewhere between a Coca-Cola and a whiskey shot in terms of potency. It usually takes six days and merges with the Marangu Route at Kibo Huts. Some claim that it is the easiest way and has a higher success rate because it allows more time to acclimatize. It is relatively sheltered from the elements on the drier side of the mountain, less crowded, and scenic with its alpine vistas. The original trail began further away in the village of Rongai, but it was closed several years ago, and the Nalemuru was unofficially renamed the Rongai.

Shira Plateau Route: A long, lesser-used route on the Shira Plateau that merges with the Lemosho Route at Shira Caves Camp. Trekkers who use this route generally follow the Lemosho or Machame routes to the summit.

Umbwe Route: Also known as the “Vodka” Route, it is one of the most difficult routes on Kilimanjaro. Climbers ascend via the Western Breach or the Machame Route. Considered one of the most spectacular ways to reach the summit, it follows a ridge and then passes below the Southern Icefield to merge with the Machame Route at Barafu Huts.

Western Breach/Arrow Glacier Route: Also considered part of the Lemosho Route, this is the most difficult route to the summit. Climbers depart Arrow Glacier Huts, a camp destroyed by rockslides, and summit by scrambling up the Western Breach or climbing the Breach Wall, a 100-meter-high ascent up an icy rock wall. This requires some technical skill, a high level of endurance, and an increased tolerance for high altitudes than the Machame or Marangu routes. It is prone to rockslides and sometimes icy, requiring climbers to cut ice steps or wear crampons. It was closed in 2006 when a rockslide killed several climbers but reopened in December 2007.

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Financial Indie: Financing Your Writing Career

“Financial Indie” is designed to help writers finance their careers. If you have an investment question, please post it, and I’ll try to incorporate it into a future article.

I cheered when I saw my Apple (AAPL) stock jump nine percent on April 25 after another great quarter, earning, perhaps, a better return in one night than I will from a year’s worth of effort to sell books. It made me wonder why so many writers chase book sales to earn a living when so few are successful, as the Wall Street Journal pointed out in an article about the self-publishing industry. While writing is an admirable calling, the economics of the publishing industry suggest that most writers need alternate sources of income to support themselves financially, at least at the outset of their careers.

After I started writing full time, I found no lack of information on how to write and publish books but few resources on how writers, particularly those with limited budgets, could finance their projects and supplement their income. Most articles I’ve read dealing with the financial aspect of writing focused on how to save money or publish on a tight budget. A few suggested doing freelancing and editing jobs. Those are viable ways for would-be authors to make money, but they can also be time-consuming. Every minute a writer spends working for someone else is one less minute spent on their own writing projects. There are other ways to earn extra income that take less time and offer a higher rate of return. Investing is one.

Self-publishing a book is not cheap. A writer may pay more than U.S.$1,000 to write, edit, and publish a book (excluding marketing expenses). It costs hundreds of dollars, if not more, to hire a professional editor to polish a manuscript and a designer to create a book cover. An e-book cover can cost as much as U.S.$100; a print version more than $200. The writer will need to purchase an ISBN from W.W. Bowker for each book medium and copyright it. Although Kindle Digital Publishing, Barnes & Noble, and Smashwords publish and distribute e-books for free, publishers usually charge for premium services such as expanded distribution and print-on-demand. Marketing expenses vary. If a writer is good at using social media, they may pay nothing to advertise. Some pay thousands of dollars to hire professional marketers. Those looking to hire an agent and publish through a traditional publishing house should expect to spend money on pitching their book.

What this means is that writing costs money in the short term, and until you earn a respectable income from book sales, you’ll need a way to finance your efforts. For most, it means working full time and writing when you can, but it doesn’t have to be that way. By planning ahead and investing wisely, you can build a stable income that will support your writing and help you move away from depending on a paycheck toward becoming a financially-independent writer.

I’ve been investing for a long time. It took me years to build an investment portfolio that gave me the opportunity to leave my day job. It wasn’t an easy option waiting to launch my writing career, but my patience was rewarded last year when I took the plunge and left my job to write full time. It gives me peace of mind knowing that investments such as Apple will support me until I establish myself as an indie author.

If you don’t have an investment portfolio, you should. How do you get started? Should you buy shares of Apple at more than U.S.$600 a share and hope they reach U.S.$800? No. Chasing returns is a fool’s game. I don’t recommend chasing “hot” stocks, even one as mighty as Apple. You can purchase Apple by owning shares of mutual funds and exchange-traded funds (ETF) that limit your exposure to price swings.

Start by writing a personal investment plan. Determine your financial goals and set a timeline. How much do you want to earn, and how long will it take to achieve it? Look at your budget to see how much you can set aside to build your financial portfolio. Just as you would outline a novel before you write it, you need a plan before you invest.

Figure out how much you can save each month and write it down. Setting aside a small amount in the near term can go a long way to supplementing your income in the long run. Look at your cash flows and decide what discretionary spending you can eliminate – including from your writing budget — and how much you can save. If you stop buying what you don’t need, how much money will you have to grow?

See if you can set aside about U.S.$100 per month. In future articles, we’ll use this as a base to help you build your portfolio.

Click here to read the next article in the “Financial Indie” series.

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Return to Ko Kret, Thailand

In September 2011, my family and I visited Ko Kret (Koh Kred) Island in the Chao Phraya River north of Bangkok, Thailand. Our outing then was cut short when we were stopped by the rising floodwaters that inundated the river. You can read about that adventure here.

Six months later after a long dry spell, we decided to try visiting again, this time on bicycle. A two meter decrease in the water level since late last year made the island much more accessible. Here are some photos showing the flooding six months ago and after the waters receded:

My wife, son and I hauled our bicycles to the ferry dock at Wat Sanamnau Buddhist temple across from the island and carried them over. Along the way, we ran into places we had seen six months earlier that had been flooded during that visit. This time, they were dry.

The ferry ride on the rickety wooden boat overloaded with passengers was an adventure in and of itself, especially with bicycles in tow. The passengers rushed on and off the ferry and fought for space, making it a logistical challenge to negotiate passage.

We made it across the river safely and stopped for lunch at a roadside food stand that offered Thai cuisine. I ate Pad Thai, the national dish of Thailand — always a “safe” dish to order if you don’t recognize any other dishes on dingy laminated menus with faded photos and Thai descriptions. My son ate crab fried rice, and my wife a seafood soup that looked a bit iffy to me but that she claimed tasted good.

We left the market located next to the ferry dock and set off on a five-kilometer (2.5 mile) bicycle ride around the island. We first headed toward the “Koh Kred Pottery Village.” What we thought was another pottery market was in fact a functioning township home to pottery makers and several large brick kilns where local artisans baked ceramic pottery.

We rode past some Buddhist landmarks, including Wat Chimphi temple, where I spotted one of the few golden phoenix statues I’d seen in Thailand, as well as shrines dedicated to the elephant god Ganesha and other Buddhist deities.

Small canals and homes elevated on stilts added to the flavor of the island.

We turned inland and rode on raised concrete thoroughfares that passed above canals and swamps dotting the island. Although the passageways were generally flat, we ran into a number of dips, speed bumps and dogs that could have sent us tumbling into the murky water and marshes on either side. In spite of the risk, the scenery made for some beautiful photo opportunities.

My wife, son and I rode through countryside filled with homes on stilts, soggy fields growing whatever the locals could cultivate, Buddhist temples, and the occasional store lining the road. The buildings were in varying stages of decay or disrepair. The hot, wet weather and repeated flooding took a heavier toll on structures here than it would have in other climes.

Turning once more, we rode back to the central market on Ko Kret. We stopped for coconut ice cream moments before a rainstorm passed over and dumped buckets of precipitation, a common but unpredictable occurrence during the rainy season. The coconut ice cream — a local concoction topped with fruit jelly, condensed milk, and sticky rice — was a real treat. Vendors who waited beside us for the rain to stop shared laughs with us without exchanging a word. We couldn’t speak Thai, and they couldn’t speak English, but the auspiciousness of eating dessert while waiting out a rainstorm transcended our language barrier.

After the storm, the vendors swept away the water with brooms, and we inched our way through the narrow, crowded alleyway with our bicycles. I joked to my wife that we got wet every time we visited Ko Kret. Getting doused by rain was a sight better than succumbing to a flood.

The rain started again as we left Ko Kret Island, and we darted back to our car with bicycles in tow. Although we ended up soaking wet, we enjoyed a great day riding on an island that’s not far from Bangkok — but a world away.

To read about our previous visit to Ko Kret during the Bangkok flood, click here for part one and here for part two.

M.G. Edwards is a writer of books and stories in the mystery, thriller and science fiction-fantasy genres. He also writes travel adventures. He is author of Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to Go Over the Hill, a non-fiction account of his attempt to summit Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain. His collection of short stories called Real Dreams: Thirty Years of Short Stories available as an e-book and in print on Amazon.com. He lives in Bangkok, Thailand with his wife Jing and son Alex.

For more books or stories by M.G. Edwards, visit his web site at www.mgedwards.com or his blog, World Adventurers. Contact him at me@mgedwards.com, on Facebook, on Google+, or @m_g_edwards on Twitter.