Cherry blossoms, Gabrielle House, and a new Pope

Last night I was just about to sit down and write my daily blog update when my Taiwan colleague called.  “Hey,” he said, “I’m leaving town tomorrow.  Can you join me for one last drink?”  I couldn’t resist.  Until then I had had a pretty quiet night at home.  I went to buy a garden hose and sprinklers to water our newly verdant lawn, and I made myself dinner for the first time in an eternity.  I cleaned up the house a bit—there’s now only a couple of leftover boxes to put away (I’ve been trying to do a little bit each day).  It was a quiet night until I went out.  We shared beer and lemon soju, a concoction that tasted suspiciously like lemonade.  One of the Americans, a big, burly man, had all of us rolling with laughter the whole evening. We had a lot of fun, and I met a few other Americans living here in Seoul, but if he hadn’t called I would have been perfectly happy staying home and domesticating. 

Yesterday’s weather was blustery, and I took some time to watch wind blow blossoms from the flowering cherry trees.  Cherry blossoms are a gorgeous sight in any weather, but the inclement weather heightened their mystique.  White cherry blossom petals gusted on the wind like freshly fallen snow.  Petals carpeted the ground around my home, and for a moment I marveled at the whitish scene surrounding me.  I was standing in the midst of a dusting of cherry snow.  The scene drew me in, forcing me to stop out from my hectic life and admire the delicate swirl of wind-blown petals covering the dark grey sky.

After work today I went with some colleagues to help at Gabrielle House, a home for orphaned and abandoned children with severe physical handicaps.  What beautiful children!  Many are trapped in unforgiving bodies, hidden from society but loved nonetheless by those dedicated to helping them live normal lives.  Their spirits are so inspiring.  We played with them and fed them dinner.  I fed a teenage girl and sang her some cheerful songs.  She could not talk to me, but I could tell by the twinkle in her eyes and squeals of delight that she really enjoyed being fed by a foreign guy in a suit as he sang her endearing favorites such as “John Jacob Jingle Heimer Schmidt” and “Old McDonald had a Farm.”  I love to sing, but I rarely have an audience, let alone a receptive one.  The kids really seemed to enjoy it—at least none of them broke into tears at the sound of my voice.  I played tag with a boy and gave another a long piggyback ride.  I passed around many a “high-five.”  We scrubbed the floors on which many immobile children lay all day, and we entertained them for a couple of hours.  I wish I could have stayed longer, but we needed to head home after a long day at work.  I am so glad I had a chance to spend a little time with these children.  I picked up one boy about the same size as my son and cradled him in my arms.  He was so light and fragile!  I really miss my little boy, and it was a pleasure to hold a boy not unlike my own.  It made me so happy to recall one of the many joys of fatherhood.  It also made me thankful for my own son’s health.  This boy now too has a special place in my heart.  We plan to volunteer at Gabrielle House more often.  If you live in Seoul and are interested in volunteering at Gabrielle House, post a comment with your E-mail address and I’ll tell you more about how you can volunteer.

Cardinal Joseph Ratzinger was elected Pope Benedict XVI today.  It was a strange sight seeing a new face on the balcony overlooking St. Peter’s Square.  Cardinal Ratzinger was Pope John Paul II’s chief theological advisor and doctrine enforcer for over two decades, a fact that has already been overanalyzed by the media.  What is considered one of Christendom’s highest offices has been too heavily defined in political terms.  The Vatican’s leadership has always has its political element, but one of Pope John Paul’s main legacies has been the church’s renewed focus on faith.  Rather than celebrating the election of a new pope, the analysts and spin doctors are focusing on the political ramifications of Ratzinger’s election and studying the tea leaves to decide whether he will be good or bad for the Catholic Church.  It’s unfortunate that Pope Benedict XVI’s honeymoon with the media has already been cut short by media dissection.  Any newly-elected leader, including the Pope, deserves a honeymoon period before judgment is passed on their political efficacy.  Ratzinger is 78 years old.  Pope John Paul II was 84 when he passed away.  Because of his age, Ratzinger is unlikely to have a long reign as pope.  As a result, speculation on his impact on the church is much too premature.  Pope John Paul I reigned less than one year as pope (1978).  In my humble opinion, Pope Benedict XVI should receive a warm welcome and be given a chance to reign as in peace for at least a short period of time.

Chillin' at the chimjilbang

It was another typically Monday until tonight.  I spent another busy day at work today and came home feeling a bit sluggish.  My colleague from Taipei who’s heading back home on Wednesday convinced me to go with him to a chimjilbang (침질방), a Korean bath house and sauna.  I hesitated to go, but he insisted because I probably won’t see him again until next year.  (He would make a great salesman.)  Another colleague joined us and we went together to the bath house in Hanam district.  Chimjilbang is very popular throughout East Asia.  I visited a similar place in Shanghai, China back in 2002.  It’s a great place to relax and unwind.  It’s cheap entertainment—6,000 won (about $6.00) will rent you bath clothes so you can rest without being self-conscious, and that’s it.  Massages cost extra (I skipped the massage tonight).  I highly recommend visiting one while you’re in Korea.  China’s are even cheaper and perhaps more fun, but Korea’s are also very enjoyable.  It’s one of the better things to do after a stressful workday.

Without going into too many gory details, here’s a sketchy summary of what happened and what to expect when you visit a chimjilbang.  First, you shower.  It’s a collective all-male or female shower (not unisex), so you need to leave your modesty at the door.  Group bathing is much more common in Asia than in the U.S.  After showering, hit the pool to relax in very, hot water.  It’s extremely warm.  After awhile, jump out of the hot pool and into the cold pool.  My colleagues were too apprehensive to do it, but crazy ol’ me did just for fun.  It felt great!  Don’t be afraid to go from hot to cold water.  It feels very refreshing.  After soaking in the pool, you dry off and put on your bath clothes.  The oversized gray clothing is made of breathable cotton, and you can relax barefooted in them as long as you’d like.  We ordered some shigae (식혜), a rice dessert soup, and relaxed and chatted in the oxygen room.  I don’t know if I was breathing pure oxygen, but it felt great.  I checked out the cold room, a frigid room, and the very hot sauna.  I didn’t spend much time in either room.  It was great to chat and relax with friends at the bath house.  I feel refreshed—just in time to head to bed.  I will sleep very well tonight!

In technology news, Adobe Systems announced that it will acquire Macromedia for $3.4 billion.  Adobe makes a variety of software products, most notably Acrobat.  Macromedia is best known for DreamWeaver, a Web design program, and Flash, a program for making dynamic online content and animated graphics.  I think it’s an interesting move by Adobe, because the two companies’ product lines do not overlap.  They also may not be compatible.  It remains to be seen if the merger will work, but it will create a strong rival to Microsoft.  Adobe’s focus is on digital documents, which is relatively static content, and Macromedia’s focus is on dynamic content.  I personally think Adobe may have been better off moving in another direction such as merging with Quicken, the financial management and tax software maker.  I believe that Adobe would find more crossover and synergies with Quicken than with Adobe.  Adobe and Macromedia’s combine success remains to be seen.

Shincheon and dinner in Itaewon

This weekend was all about eating and merriment.  On Saturday I joined some friends for galbi barbeque in Shincheon, one of Seoul’s livelier club and noraebang (karaoke) districts.  One friend celebrated his birthday, and we toasted him with soju and beer over delicious grilled galbi, kimchi, rice, and side dishes.  Galbi (갈비), or Korean barbequed-style pork ribs, is one of Korea’s most popular dishes.  Galbi usually goes hand in hand with bulgogi, or barbequed beef.  We had a number of side dishes to choose from as well as a healthy helping of cabbage kimchi.  I discovered that grilled kimchi is absolutely delicious.  Someone told me that kimchi tastes really good if you put it on the grill for about half a minute.  I grilled both sides of the cabbage and tasted it.  You need to enjoy eating kimchi to appreciate the taste of grilled kimchi–if you do, you’ll love the taste of grilled kimchi.  The meal was one of the best I have eaten since I arrived in Korea.  I was hoping to lose weight while living abroad, but Korean food is much too delicious, and too many activities here seem to center around food.  After our meal we sang "Happy Birthday" to one of our friends and ate some tiramisu cake.  Fun was had by all.

After dinner we headed to Hongdae, another Seoul club district.  We went to M2, one of Seoul’s more popular nightclubs.  I met the manager, a Canadian chap from Victoria, British Columbia.  He’s been instrumental if giving the club a Western feel.  The staff was friendly and appeared to enjoy in the fun despite having to work.  We stayed for awhile, drinking and dancing.  We danced together in a big group.  We tried to invite some locals to join our circle, but no one took us up on our offer.  A couple Korean friends told me that this is because Koreans tend to spend time with friends they know well and are not as open to meeting strangers.  It could be that we were so obviously different as Westerners that we were almost misfits.  The Koreans there may have also been uncomfortable interacting in English.  They apparently assumed that we do not know Korean and that they will have to speak English.  I did have a chance to meet and speak in Korean with a couple of people, including a Korean guy whose English was very good.  Perhaps a nightclub is not the best place for striking up conversations, but it would have been fun to mingle with the locals.  As the club grew more and more crowded with Koreans, we decided to call it a night and went home. 

Tonight I joined a couple of colleagues and their spouses for a Korean dinner in Itaewon.  One colleague arrived from Beijing today and will be here for two weeks; the other I’ve met a couple of times since he arrived from Taipei.  Our dinner consisted primarily of banchan (반잔), or side dishes, and Korean tofu soup.  We drank makkoli (막고리), one of the few Korean alcohols I don’t really enjoy drinking.  (Makkoli is a milky, unprocessed rice alcohol with a bitter, acquired taste.  There are two types of people in this world–those who like drinking makkoli and those who do not)  I wasn’t very hungry and didn’t eat much tonight.  I’m happy to meet up with another colleague I knew while living in Washington, D.C.  He has been in Beijing with his wife since early last year.  We had a great time and enjoyed good conversation.  We sat on the floor on mats at a Korean-style table.  Unfortunately, the floor was heated, and it was much too hot for comfort.  I fidgeted the entire time, trying to cool my overheated legs and feet.  I added more mats, but it didn’t help.  I felt like I was sitting on a galbi grill!  Korean-style dining on a heated floor is usually a pleasant experience, but not tonight.